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Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Gramps 19th - 24th

3:17:14 AM
Last week Heath, Nick, Merium, Hahn and myself headed up to the gramps with crashmat in tow. I had wanted to head to muline and bundaleer for climbing but i was outvoted as the others were just keen to boulder. Anyways, the week was great, whether was fantastic, slept outside a few nites and spent most afternoons/evenings swimming at mc'kenzies falls. I will post some pics when i get them developed.

First day was spent bouldering at andersens. We did a host of classic problems including a couple of scary highballs. The best in this area were lilad V4 ticked my nick and heath and flashed by myself. Odysey V3 was also realy nice. Quite powerfull, it was also ticked by the three of us. We then moved onto a nice 45 degree wall with some kewl problems on it. One of my projects was here, an un-named V6. Id come agonisingly close to ticking it last trip. I was hoping for sucess but to no avail it wasnt my day. Theres a realy really nice problem just left of this, thats probably one of my favorite boulder problems ever. See pic here.
Heath finished the day by ticking lygon st masacare, a realy nice, technical face problem.

The next day was spent at the trackside boulders. A really nice area similar to andersens. The amazing boulder has a fantastic selection of problems. If you decide to check out this area make sure you try paranoic critical town V3, it's an awesome problem up a nice arete with some long moves of good slopes. Merium also ticked her first V2/3 called 'some days your a whore'. Pity bout the name but needless to say she was physched with that. I then did a realy nice unnamed V5. It was only 3 moves then jugs but those three moves were quite hard. Heath must have had at least 50 attempts at it, over two days which included copious amounts of swearing and skin loss, he eventualy (???) conceded defeat... then swore some more. We then moved to the love boulder. It has some nice dynamic problems on it and some scary highballs. I almost did a really nice V6/7????. I pulled all the start moves which were quite long and powerfull, but came unstuck when pulling onto the headwall. Good hands but not much for feet, although even if i had done the moves im sure i would have packed my dacks on the 8 meter top out.

Next day was spent at Hollow mtn block, the cave and loopys. I blew of bundaller for this and i was happy i did. Heath and i had and awesome time. We had the exact same tick list.

Facklem in sturm V4
Dra Di V3 Flash
Unnamed V4 2nd shot
Unnamed V6 3rd shot

Nick, hahn and merium also had a good time there they all ticked dra di, and an unknown V2, while nick came so so close to ticking facklem in sturm.

We moved onto the cave and got spanked, i a breif (very breif) play on cave man V9, and got spanked. The reach move is huge., although the rest dont seem to bad. Heath had 15 or so atemts at silverchair V5, he fell a few times going for the finishing sloper.

Then at loopys heath and i ticked two sleeps V4. This is a realy realy good problem. A bit of height helps, im not short and still had to do a horizontal dyno of a shit undercling. I then did fashin V5, i had previosly flashed thisd problem. Heath hot it after afew goes. Nick again came so so close to ticking two sleeps, he is so strong, just no endurance at all. The girls finished the day by ticking 'groveling sideways... V3'.

The final day we met up with luke and peter and went to taopan and spurt wall. Lukes a regular on our climbing trips, peter is down from nowra. The girls s[ent most of the day traverses at taipan, they absolutly loved it and fell in love with the area. Peter was working tyranny (29). He did every move, just couldnt link it up. Luke was having a shot at spurt girl (28), he climbed well to the seccond third bolt, then came unstuck. A couple of big dynos are involved, luke just dosnt comitt to the moves enough and this ened up stopping him. Feeling absolutly wrecked i was talked in trying this spurting life (22). Feeling pumped when i left the ground, i suprisewd myself by climbing cleany to just below the third and final bolt before stacking after swallowing a fly ???. I tried it again later but ended up dogging it with a few rests. With all of us feeling hammered we packed up and headec back to melbourne.

A very sucessfull trip for all of us i think.
8:59:16 AM
sounds like a good trip.....

give me a yell when your heading out next.

phil, you still at rmit this year, i just got in there so i guess well be seeing alot more of each other.


12:14:41 PM
Yep, final year this year hopefully.
9:53:18 PM
man...i so have not conceded defeat on that v5! there's numerous more layers of skin to lose yet!

11:23:33 PM
nice trip report dude!

it sounded even better than i thought... nice ticklist for the boulder problems. can't wait to get back out there.

2:02:46 AM
Ok heres a link to some pics. Theres only a few up, wil be more soon.

The pics from the recent trip can be found by chossing the category of bouldering from the drop down menu, then shoose a time period of 'past week'. Then press filter, this will then show the pics.


8:56:45 PM
Excellent report !!! Very informative.
Trying to find a really good guide book for bouldering around the Gramps ???

Muline, bundaleer areas mostly !?!

6:40:35 PM
I was just thinking about this. Apparently Ross Taylor is in the process of making a guide for the staplyton area.

I was thinking about writing up an article regarding bouldering in the gramps. Similar to the one i wrote on weribee. Sort of a best off. It would probably contain selected problems with as many pics as possible.

However, at the moment, the best i can do is offer you myself as a guide, i can point yo\u in the direction of a few good problems at bundaller and stapltyon area.

4:21:11 PM
isnt there a crappy online guide somewhere round

australian bouldering or somthing???
8:00:19 PM
Yeah has an online guide for the Stapylton area, there is also an older Grampians Bouldering Guide by Gordon Poultney, you might be able to get it at Araps Mountain shop, although it's probably not worth it.


6:39:39 PM
Is there an ETA on Ross Taylors book ? Anytime this year ???
Even better when my mates and I head up there I'll drag you along to be our unofficial, and unpaid guide. What do you think ?

7:25:54 PM
I was only told about it by Martin (Dalai from this site), so i have no idea???

Unofficial and unpaid....mmmmm.

I tell u what, buy me a beer and id be happy to show you round to all the good areas.


8:06:59 PM
Im sure I can accomidate with the beer situation ! Thinking about maybe mid april. Friday - Saturday thing, no major details yet . Keep u posted

12:08:54 AM
sounds good, im keen to boulder, climb whatever ur up for. Let me know.
9:47:57 AM
Didn't get a time frame for a hard copy guide from Ross, it was just mentioned in passing.

10:03:20 AM
i thought there was some ethical debate about the amount of bush thrashing that boulderers have been doing in the stapylton area. That ws the reason Gordy stopped publishing info on the bouldering.

There are 16 messages in this topic.


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