Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
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|South Australians at Arapiles, 1965
||Thursday, 6 January 2011 At 4:04:44 PM
|I enjoyed the following from the Adelaide University Mountain Club Bulletin #16, October 1965:
K.O. Wade and I. Dainis persuaded Keith's car to reach Mt Arapiles on 7th August. First climb was Ali's retrieving piton left on last nocturnal ascent; then walking round Flinder's Lane Bluff Minor and Bluff Major were conquered.
Sun 8th. Climbed up first 100' of The Slot and continued up Tiptoe Ridge. After lunch headed up Siren and branched off to proceed straight up chimney on RHS of buttress. Last bit was a good layback. Not satisfied then, did the Trapeze.
Mon 9th. Climbed Eighth direct, made descent via Eagle Cleft cave. Climbed Salamander in afternoon.
Tues 10th. Climbed Pharos and the Cunrack and had several attempts at Mickey Finn and Hun. Left for Melbourne.
Sat 14th. Climbed Mickey Finn and Hun, more out of desperation than skill. Left Mt Arapiles to Monashites feeling somewhat satisfied.
Another trip was written up by Richard Horn:
Two weary AUMC members were deposited at Horsham railway station at 4am after a night with drunks and old ladies who 'no speaka English'. The rest of the night was spent on the solid wooden floor of the luxury waiting room. After being photographed for the Horsham rag and hitching a few rides, Arapiles was reached. A wet, slippery Pharos was then conquered. The following day Tiptoe Ridge and D-Minor were conquered. As no other climbers were present, certain unethical techniques were used. MUMC and VCC arrived on Friday, fortunately with liquid refreshments.
Ali's was done on Saturday. Sunday was wet but the writer did Clytemnaestra, 90' of strenuous chimney work. Some climbs were done with Monash, the Introductory and the Eighth (direct). Monday was spent walking most of the way until eventually getting a lift to Horsham.
Useful information - don't go to Arapiles by train.
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