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|Attilla and Zig Zag, Blueys
Not an actual trip report, but where do route reviews belong?
Climbed sandstone again yesterday and my god it's an improvement over Canberra granite. Say what you like about cheesy Blueys rock, which there was some of, but Canberra just doesn't have such solid continuous lines.
So, we ticked Attilla at Corroboree Walls, which reads really well in the 07 Carter guide, but was probably not as classic as the 4? stars suggests. Also if that's 86m of climbing then the first ascent must have started in the creek. Steve did the first 3 pitches in one 45m pitch, then there's only 20m at absolute most to the top. Hilariously, I couldn't fit into the squeeze chimney at the top without taking off my harness. I thought I fit in last time too. Otherwise it's a pretty fun route, but some creativity is required to dodge the shonky bits of rock. Some good climbing, 15 probably about the right grade, but it looks heaps easier from the ground.
Then we toddled over to Zig Zag because Steve wanted to lead Fer de Lance, a 19 that goes up an arching corner with good jams and laybacks until you get into the traverse which mostly requires footwork.
But the main one I wanted to mention was Turkish Delight, right down the end. I hope that he did it intentionally to maintain a spirit of adventure, but we've done a few routes now that barely rate a mention in the guide but are trad classics worthy of at least a couple of stars, particularly in the 5 star system. TD is a lumpy, steep corner, full of jugs and stances, with some funky moves into a hanging chimney. The gear was bomber the whole way and climbing it required a pretty varied set of skills. Totally worth the walk.
While you're down there, check out Transcendental Meditation. A roof crack to hanging off width, which is sometimes a waterfall. Buggered if I know how it could be climbed now, let alone in the Dark Ages.
On 24/12/2010 evanbb wrote:
>Then we toddled over to Zig Zag because Steve wanted to lead Fer de Lance,
>a 19 that goes up an arching corner with good jams and laybacks until you
>get into the traverse which mostly requires footwork.
FdL is classic eh?? Wagget and Wegnut the pitch above it is an exciting combo !!
I took a great ground fall on transendental. Got wedged in deep shuffling upwards unable to put gear in then expired and pancaked.
One thing worth mentioning about Attila is that its in the shade most of the day.
On 24/12/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I took a great ground fall on transendental. Got wedged in deep shuffling
>upwards unable to put gear in then expired and pancaked.
Damn! Do you know if the rumour that the first ascentionist protected it with tied off custom-length 2x4s is true? It's certainly an intimidating line!
>One thing worth mentioning about Attila is that its in the shade most
>of the day.
That's about the only worthwhile thing about it I reckon. We got up extra early one morning to do it and ended up wishing we'd stayed in bed. In fact after the first 2 pitches (which were described as 3 or 4 in the guide) we decided to just walk off instead of doing the last pitch. There was about 3m of nice climbing on pitch one (which unfortunately had a very large loose block in the middle of it), then it was outright crap.
Fer De Lance on the other hand is great (though a tad short) - the link up with W&W is definitely worthwhile. Taipan (the thin crack on the face to the right of FdL) is AWESOME - the original (grade 16) second pitch is spectacular and way better than the horrible one-move-wonder grade 19 variant.
Here's some pics of FdL and W&W:
WM modeling the corner on Fer De Lance.
Andrew D. maintaining his dental hygiene on W&W.
dunno about rumours but with modern big gear I reckon it would be cool. I got on it thinking I'd save my one big piece when it should of gone in from the word go and pushed it with me.
nice pics of fdl & w&w
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