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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Is Yangshou too hot in June/July?
hughsut
15/01/2010
8:53:52 AM
We're planning a climbing trip to Asia.

Tonsai and Yangshou are the main stops.

Should we spend April in Tonsai and June in Yangshou?

Or is it better to spend April in Yangshou and June in Tonsai?

I'm optimistic that Southern Thailand will be great at either stage. My main concern is that we'll be too hot in China in June.

Thanks for any advice.

Eduardo Slabofvic
15/01/2010
9:31:25 AM
I think it would be. I never been there in June, but I find it a bit too hot in September. The guide book
recommends September to end of November as being the best time to go. March through to Mays is also
recommended. There are places to climb in the shade, but some of the best crags are in direct sun.



NZclimber
15/01/2010
9:39:03 AM
I'm not sure about Yangshou temperatures in June, but I'd think you would want to hit Thailand first as it would be coming into rainy season in June.
Wendy
15/01/2010
10:13:09 AM
I'm with Eduardo - I reckon it'll be bloody hot in Yangshuo in June and if you never get any coolish days, you miss out on a lot of great crags. Mind you, it will also be bloody hot in Thailand in April. And in June too. I hope you like the heat.

wallwombat
16/01/2010
12:26:07 AM
Sounds like you really did your research for this trip, hughsut.

Paulie
17/01/2010
12:36:34 PM
Don't be too harsh mate, every place has it's nuances, most ppl write off Araps over summer, however there are some lovely places in the shade that you don't learn about until you ask people who've been there. Same with Thailand, which I think is better in the rainy season as it's cooler, tho that's rarely recommended either...don't answer the questions, question the answers...

wallwombat
17/01/2010
9:26:59 PM
Thailand doesn't seem to be the problem. Yangshou seems to be the problem.


hughsut
18/01/2010
10:03:57 AM
Thanks for the thoughts with regard to timing of a trip to the "east". Now, what to bring? How much of the equipment required to bolt routes is available at the said places. Can one get their hands on drills, bits, brushes, puffertubes, 316stainless and, if necessary, glue? Who to ask about that limestone plum that's ripe for the picking? Do local climbers in asia have a view either way towards foreigners gridbolting their walls and towers? Finally, is there a fund in Australia that supports this "Sport" in the developing world?

Eduardo Slabofvic
18/01/2010
11:06:03 AM
In Yangshuo you can get a drill, bolts and brackets. You do need to "book" the drill (there's no formal system, just make sure that no one else has already arranged to use it the next day. If you're nice and polite and meet the right people, then the bolts and brackets are free. It seems that most new routes are being put up by ex-pat climbers. There is a big bunch of full timers in Yangshuo who spend a lot of time scoping new crags and putting up new routes.

There is an access fund operating in Yangshuo now, so talk to them before bolting anything, as there are complex land issues being sorted out, and your mega route could result in access being denied to the crag. The rule of thumb is, if the crag is not near a village then itís O.K., and there are villages everywhere. Access to crags near villages, where that village considers the crag to be ďtheirsĒ is tenuous. This is what the access initiative is seeking to resolve. Whilst there are other areas in China where the local governments are trying to get people to come and bolt, so as to create a new climbing based tourism industry. Itís a wacky place.

NB Ė there is loads more climbing in China than Yangshuo. Itís just the most developed. Youíll need to go with a partner if youíre going further afield. If you go to remoter places, then the locals have a habit of stealing the 1st and 2nd bolts.

I met a guy who lives in Aonang (just north of Krabi) who is aching for people to help him put up routes, theyíre just not on the beach. Heís got a drill and bolts, but it would be polite to pay him for the bolts. Iíve no idea of whatís going on in Riley/Tonsai these days. I here that the older multi pitch routes are in poor condition. Iíve also heard that Phi Phi has been rebolted, and there is another island where the new route activity is currently underway (Kao Yanoi Ė or something like that, I donít know the spelling).

Eduardo Slabofvic
18/01/2010
11:09:35 AM
Also, don't walk on anyones crops, and if they are selling fruit/drinks, then buy some. Smile and say hello - the Chinese people are very friendly and very generous, just be nice to them and they will be nice in return. Behave like a dick, and you'll see how nasty they can be.
hughsut
27/01/2010
5:42:18 PM
Thanks for the valuable insight into these places we'll visit on our upcoming trip. We'll go to China first and if it's too hot at yangshuo we'll probably go to the Yunnan province where the altitude is slightly greater. I hear Tiger Leaping Gorge on the Yangtze river is worth seeing. Has anyone been cragging in Yunnan?

Eduardo Slabofvic
27/01/2010
6:07:45 PM
Yup. Fumin Gorge just outside Kunmin has a couple of hundred bolted routes up to 5.13. It will still
be hot then, and the best walls are in the sun until about 2 in the afternoon.

The western Hills, also near Kunmin have a bunch, mostly in the lower grades.

There's a few smaller areas near Dali, about a weeks worth all up. There are supposed to be some
crags near Lijaing but I didn't go to them.

Dali is really nice. There are some other areas that could open up between Dali and Lijaing, but
permission has not been granted yet

Tiger leaping gorge is O.K. nice views of the mountains on the opposite side, which look like total
choss to climb.

I only met 1 guy full time climbing in Yunnan, so the good thing is you'll probably have all the crags to
yourself, the bad thing is, some of the anchors are crap, so take plenty of sling that you're prepared to
leave behind; and local people have a habit of stealing the bottom 2 or 3 bolt plates, so expect the
occasional run out start.

These areas are nowhere near as developed (climbing wise) as Yangshuo.

If you're taking a rack to China (which I think is worth while - I posted mine home when I went to Laos)
then go and check out Henan Province, Taihang Mountain. Further north (almost dead centre in
China) and still at about 1500m elevation. There are plenty of established routes, and more going up.
Lots of crack lines. Some multi pitch.

Fingers crossed I'll be there in June as well.

bel
28/01/2010
8:07:52 PM
would love to get back to china and do some more climbing, perhaps next year!

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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