Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Scarpa: Scarpa "Mystic GTX" Approach Shoe. Premium model. Gortex lined. Vibram Sole. Climbing toe... Size 43 Eur. (10 USm)  $149.00
50% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
TR - not Wild is the Wind

GravityHound
9/12/2009
7:19:24 PM
The last time I went climbing (12 months ago) I left two hexes on Go Cat in the Wolgan when I bailed. Peter Monks kindly gave me a set of hexes and in return asked for a trip report the next time I went climbing in the BM. It has been a while but below, Mr Monks, is my part of that deal…..I place no guarantees on the quality of the following TR but at least it isn’t about religion or climate change.

After all the suggestions from chockstoners Jerome and I finally settled on doing Wild is the Wind but because neither of us had climbed for some time we had no kahunas so planned to sandbag Scotty with the third pitch. Problem was life is treating Scotty a bit rough at the moment so he might not see the funny side of the situation. So Jerbs and I got in touch with our sensitive sides and decided not to sandbag Scotty, didn’t find any kahunas to lead the third pitch ourselves and decided to head to Piddo instead.
We decided Joseph was a good start so dumped our gear at the base and put our harnesses on. We then stood there and scratched ourselves while we tried to talk each other into taking the lead. I got sick of standing there so took the sharp end, racked up and headed up. We figured out on the walk in that it had been nearly 2 years since I had free-climbed. I initially found myself doubting my placements and hoping to god that I didn’t peel but everything went smoothly (and slowly) and I got to the rings at the top feeling confident, having fun and realizing just how much I miss climbing. Damn freedom I tell ya! I also got to use C4’s for the first time and was pretty impressed. Scotty came up next and was followed by Jerbs. We got cosy on the ledge for a few
minutes and then rapped of to head to the next climb.

Up next was Cartheginian. Scotty took the sharp end and headed up with ease. Jerbs kept calling out encouragement “Use the crack” until Scotty cracked it and told him to shut the f*ck up. It was this point that the amount of slack in the line got substantially greater. Sh!t stirring mates is great fun but we stopped short of throwing rocks at him. I followed next and then Jerbs. Another nice climb, easy footjams and the hugging section is interesting. I reckon this climb is easier for tall people because I always seem to get up it easier than the shortarses I climb with. We rapped down Eternity and admired what I reckon would have to be one of the nicest lines in the BM. I will probably never have the skills to climb it again now.

The whole time we were on Cartheginian we were geeing up Jerbs to lead Psychopath. When you haven’t climbed for a few years it is a pretty big call to get the kahunas to lead a 17 I reckon, so was surprised when Jerbs manned up and accepted the challenge (that I sure as hell wouldn’t have). Jerbs headed up doing his psyched up choofs and I was on belay, Scotty was getting photos and both of us were rather impressed at his effort. Jerbs was psyched and we appreciated he was shitting himself so we didn’t hurl insults at him to wind him up, but probably should have. We didn’t have to in the end because a guy I knew came around the corner and we got chatting. This got Jerbs frothing because I started chatting while he was on a sketchy bit. When you’re bud tells you to “shut the f*ck up and just watch me” you know he’s getting seriously pissed. So I shut up, watched him, he got through the section and then moved up to finish the climb. Scotty followed next, finding it pretty stiff but doing it nicely and then I attempted it but got spat off the first crack section three times because of inability to handjam properly, and a lack of heart. By this time it was getting close to 30 degrees which in my books is pretty frickin hot and rather than head to flake crack I called it pub o’clock. By the time we packed up and got out of there messages had been received from better halves and the pub was canned so I hopped on my bike and went and drank my parents beer instead.

I vowed to come back and get up Psychopath sooner rather than later but the reality of it will be that is happens later. Overall it was day that climbing is all about. Nice climbs and taking the piss out of your mates. Even without the beer it doesn’t get much better than that. We took photos but I probably won’t to bother posting any as they are all from the ground and the mostly show male arses surrounded by dangly bits.


Duncan
9/12/2009
7:38:55 PM
I'm pretty sure the new guide gives Psycopath 19.
julian.A
9/12/2009
8:07:46 PM

Where is this route Psycopath ?

I've never heard of it..

wallwombat
9/12/2009
8:16:43 PM
It's at Mt Piddington in the Blue Mountains.
Winston Smith
9/12/2009
9:45:29 PM
Psychopath - which is the next climb left of The Carthaginian at ground level - is graded 18 in the current Carter guide.

I would say it is 17 at the most, as per previous guides.

It is much easier than other Piddington 18s including the Eternity - which also graded 18 nowadays (in the current Carter guide) but has been a 19 in the past - and Amen Corner which is a solid 18.

Learning to jam is simply another technique and needs to be practised in the same way that you learn to layback, crimp, climb slabs, etc, etc.

For Queenslanders jam is the same as jamB except a jamB is really part of a doorway, arch, window or it is a piece of plate armor for the leg between the knee and the ankle, usually composed of front and back pieces and has nothing to do with jamming your hands in a crack.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
10/12/2009
6:39:22 AM
On 9/12/2009 GravityHound wrote:
>I got sick of standinng there so took the sharp end, racked up and headed up.
(snip)
>having fun and realizing just how much I miss climbing. Damn freedom I tell ya!

It is incongruous, how tieing into a rope = freedom eh! ;-)
... ~> but I agree, it is a good kind of freedom!


>When you haven’t climbed for a few years it is a pretty big call to get the kahunas to lead a 17 I reckon

I find a lot of this is in the mind. If one is psyched, the main limitation is the physical fitness or lack thereof.

>so I hopped on my bike and went

Good to hear the KLR is getting to go on climbing trips!

I enjoyed reading your TR, as it has been a while since I have climbed at Piddo. and it brings back good memories.

Have you been back to see if the booty gods accepted your hex contribution in the Wolgan?


evanbb
10/12/2009
7:10:51 AM
On 9/12/2009 Winston Smith wrote:
>It is much easier than other Piddington 18s including the Eternity - which
>also graded 18 nowadays (in the current Carter guide) but has been a 19
>in the past - and Amen Corner which is a solid 18.

Never been on Amen, but I find Psycho harder than Eternity. Different strokes I guess.


Piddo's great. Joseph is a classic at the grade; Did you look at the second pitch? A mate gives it 5 stars. Again, I've never dont it.

Carthagenian is also spectacular. So relaxing and confidence inspiring. Terrific climb. Between Cartho and Eternity is the Pharaoh; also 15. It looks like a diabolical off-width, but is nothing of the sort in the end. Jump on that next time you're around there.


pmonks
10/12/2009
8:48:55 AM
Thanks for the TR, GravityHound - would love to see some photos once you have them!

Like evanbb I think Psychopath is harder than Eternity, although I'd probably give them both 18. Amen Corner is also hard, albeit not as sustained from memory as either P or E. Part of AC's charm is that the crux section doesn't take much in the way of protection (unless you have tube chocks), so while it'd likely be a safe fall (good gear below that section, and it's high enough up that you wouldn't hit the ground unless the protection failed) it's a little more mentally challenging than either P or E (which take gear anywhere you care to place it).
Duncan
10/12/2009
11:47:23 AM
On 10/12/2009 evanbb wrote:
>Piddo's great. Joseph is a classic at the grade; Did you look at the second
>pitch? A mate gives it 5 stars. Again, I've never dont it.

Your mate was sandbagging you.

MattyB
10/12/2009
11:48:00 AM
Surprised nobody has mentioned 'The Spartan' in that neck of the Piddo woods... Absolute 5 star classic I reckon??!! One of my favourite climbs ever.

pmonks
10/12/2009
4:45:46 PM
Oh yeah Spartan is awesome! I did it in a torrential downpour and we stayed dry as a nun's nasty (well up until the last pitch, at least).

Does anyone know if the fisty looking crack directly below P2 of Spartan has been done? After the rubbish start it looks like it could be quite good!

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints