Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!
On Friday night after a battle through peak hour traffic, some bad take away and some off putting weather, Tim, Shoe and myself were on the way to the Grampians. We camped at a disturbingly empty Stapylton. It seemed every climber in Victoria had been lured to Araps for the w/end.
Saturday we decided due to dubious weather that a crag with easy “bail to car” access would be the best bet so we headed to Wall of fools. Here Tim led Flake of Fear (15) and both Shoe and I seconded him to warm up. Then Tim and I both jumped on Arch Enema (24) which we both cleaned second shot. It’s a really cool thin crimpy route with a hard/ interesting last clip. It involves bridging the span between the face and the back side of the flake/roof that Milupa follows. This sounds straight enough but if your tall it requires some contortions any circus freak would be proud of. Tim had no trouble and even worked out a body jam from which he could clip from. After that we headed back to the car to shelter from the rain before heading to Sentinel.
When we got there there were five or six guys climbing and ropes and draws on almost every thing! We then climbed dwarf pumper (20) and had a bash at Stepping on Snakes (23) Tim and I both failed to top it though second shot I fell off the lip .
Sunday we woke and were feeling less than energetic, so we decided to boulder at hollow cave and loopeys. We played a little though spent more time enjoying the sunshine when it made it through the clouds. We headed back to camp for lunch and a sleep. There Tim set the record for rafter jumping! In the stapylton shelter you can just swing and jump from one rafter to another. Tim made six consecutive jumps and remained un challenged champion! After a lazy lunch we decided we better do something productive so we went to Summer Day to top rope something. It turned out to be Tootsie Direct (22). After we top roped it I decided to lead it. I got it clean for my hardest lead on gear (be it only one move ). Then Tim had a go and being slightly shorter than me was forced to do a hideous crux move. He came off and took his second fall on gear! He even let out a woooo hooo as he fell which I thought was a far cry better than Neil’s trademark whimper (see chockstone gathering video). He then jumped straight back on and cleaned it with ease.
Monday saw a trip into Van Demons land. We climbed the dope man (18) which was the hardest 18 id ever been on! We then walked back to Cut lunch wall as it was much more inspiring. We climbed the 21 Raindancer to get to the upper wall. Tim led it with style and I followed, we then brought up Shoe. As he was pulling on the crux the key jug blew off in his hands leaving nothing and forcing him to climb to the left of the bolt rather than the nicer right hand side.
Once we all had gained the upper level we decided to find the easiest route. Having no guide, we picked a route at the far right of the cliff which proved to be not that easy……The big Payback (25). Tim led and cleaned to the third bolt then stuck the dino after a few attempts and then clipped the forth and got stuck at the massive stretch. I tried second and got stuck at the first dino… Tuan then again got to the same point and cleaned the route. Cut lunch is an awesome place and any one looking for sport in the low 20’s id recommend you try here! We then headed to Sentinel to try to knock off Snakes but to no avail…..
We left the draws on it and returned in the morning where I fell off at the lip AGAIN!!! And Tuan cleaned it in perfect style, and got off with energy to burn so he jumped on Media Puzzle (23) and cleaned this with ease.
We then packed up camp and headed off to try to find Jacqui, but to no avail… we headed home.
All in all it was a great trip in which we all surprise ourselves by getting up things we didn’t think possible and we also checked out some areas none of us had been.
Nice one Timmy and Joe.... Spewin i was stuck indoors all weekend!
Thanks for the report Joe, sounds a whole lot better than the domestic chores I got stuck doing. Mutter mutter....
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