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Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
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||Monday, 22 January 2007 At 5:48:56 PM
|Well, here in Shangers now and like I originaly thought, there is not a lot of rock here.
What there is however, is a healthy amount of gym enthusiasts and desire to climb.
Ignoring what the Lonley Planet says, there are 2 MAJOR gym centres here. One on the north of town and one on the south, both inside sports stadiums I know what you are saying, considering the population here is the same of that of the whole of Australia, shouldnt there be more? The answer simply is, no. There are others, but I havent worked my sources enough to get the info on them. Give me a few more weeks.
The first is at Hongkou sports stadium (HK), gate 23 (i think) up a few floors, i think this is the one in the lonley planet for Shangers. It is more for bouldering as it isn't that high but the cave out the back is really pretty. A few problems (mainly hinging on heel hooks and flags). everything else here is Crimpy (with a capital C). 40 yuan a visit. Met the current leading Chinese rock climber here and all the folks are friendly (he mentioned that he was here during the colder months).
The other is at Shanghai Stadium (SS, gate 1 (if you cant see it you are blind)). It is exposed so dont go there during the winter, it sucks. But given better weather, the 20+ meter wall, features and moderately large bouldering thing (like a big boulder just made of wood), it would be a superburb place to go. I am only here during the winter though so, sods to that. 50 yuan a visit. Paying is a bit of a mission: you pay somewhere else then go around the corner. They are super professional here and because of this, not as warm as those at HK.
Both places belay off a stitch plate or figure 8. No place has rope secured to the ground (saftey used in most Australian Gyms). If you have your own gear you can use it. Leading is available at both places (apart from the pretty roof at HK, leading is better at SS due to the height). I think it all together goes down to the preferences of the climber.
I am a little biased cause I go drinking with the boss at HK, his name is Lao Tsui (litterally old tsui).
I will try to repost on this item with photos soon.
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