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The Bumblies Strike Back - Araps TR

armyiain

17-Jul-2006
9:13:21 PM

DISCLAIMER: This trip report contains no grades over 17, features many under 10, and is rated as suitable for bumblies only.

Monday

Making the best of what time off work we could get, a few of my mates and I planned an Arapiles trip for July. The purpose of the trip was twofold – Damien and Jake both wanted to consolidate their leading skills, and I was keen to get some further leading under my belt (if I could fit them in under my overhanging gut - haven’t been climbing much lately).

We all arrived from different directions – Damien, his girlfriend and a mate drove up from Adelaide on the Monday morning, and Jake left Tasmania on the Sunday, picking me up from the Melbourne airport on Monday morning. So from three different states we all converged on Araps at about 4 o’clock on the Monday afternoon. Looking warily at the clouds gathering overhead, Jake and I decided that we should at least touch the rock that afternoon. We rolled on up to the plaque wall and quickly climbed Camelot * (10). Though I haven’t done much climbing lately I thought it pretty stiff for a 10 – must be all the sandshoes wearing the rock down or something. As we walked back to the Pines, we looked up at the sky and hoped like hell that we hadn’t just had our last taste of the rock this trip!

Tuesday

Though it did rain off and on throughout Monday night, we were pleased to see that Tuesday morning brought better weather, and as the rain was only light the rock was still fairly dry. Jake and I strolled over to Castle Crag and I led up Trapeze ** (11). It was a bit harder than what I remembered, but still great fun. After topping out I rapped off, leaving the gear in so Jake could have a go at leading. He performed quite well, and so we threw a top-rope over Swinging ** (17). Jake took a rest or two and I managed to get up it clean.

We then left Castle Crag, as some Euros jumped on Swinging to get some photos. It’s always inspiring to see someone crank up a climb so easily! We headed on over to the Eighth ** (8). This was a thoroughly enjoyable climb and by the time we got off the Mount there wasn’t much time left, so I threw a top rope over Minimus * (14) on the Plaque Wall. I decided to give it a miss, hoping to lead it later in the trip.

Above: Jake seconding a pitch on 'The Eighth' ** (8)

Damien and his two mates headed over to Tiptoe Ridge *** (4) for an all-day adventure. Though having done the route before, Damien found it quite enjoyable, as did his two friends who were relatively new to climbing.

Wednesday

Jake and I decided to head on over to the Organ Pipes to try and accumulate some stars. We started with Diapason ** (7) so Jake could get some leading in. He did very well on pitches 1 and 3, while I jumped on pitch 2 as I hadn’t done it before. We had a good climb, despite being unable to get a wire out on pitch 1 – not stuck, but I managed to push it too far into a crack when trying to get it out. More on this later.

We then planned to head up D Minor, but a British couple were at the bottom roping up, so we headed for D Major ** (8). After completing pitch one, we escaped off the back to attempt D Minor. I had led pitch one before, but found it stiffer than I remembered. Though I had done the climb before, I hadn’t led the second pitch. I was quite pleased to crank through both the overhangs without a fall. Jake also really enjoyed the climb – his first three star 14. Deciding that there was time for one more climb, we headed on over to Didgeridoo ** (11). I found this climb to be absolutely excellent, though I did wish I had more small wires! It was an ironic experience to clip the rap chains as I topped out – felt like a sport climb! It really seems that there is something ‘special’ about grade 11s on the Organ Pipes! So for Jake and I it was a 9 star day – we were fairly pleased with this effort.

Above: Author leading Didgeridoo ** (11)

Damien, Liam and Anna all headed out to Bushrangers Bluff for a day of easy leads and top-roping.

Thursday

Feeling absolutely buggered from the previous day’s climbing, Jake and I started up the easy Introductory Route ** (4) to give Jake some more leading practice. This is a fine climb in the low grades, and we thoroughly enjoyed strolling on up it. Jake did really well on lead – only a couple of less-than-perfect placements. Everything else was absolutely bomber.

As it was the afternoon by the time we descended, we headed back to the Pines for a quick brew with lunch. We then moved on to the Plaque Wall to run through some self-rescue and other skills. I also climbed up Minimus ** (14) with one rest. I thought it fairly stiff – a fair bit harder than D Minor.

Damien, Anna and Liam conducted more top-roping and lead climbing in the easy grades at Dec Crag. They also climbed Diapason, with Anna’s small hands proving successful in retrieving my lost wire! It felt like a ‘circle of booty’ or something, as I had found that nut at the base of the Tiger wall in Sept 05.

On Thursday night we invited an English couple over to our fire for some sausages. They were on the last 10 weeks of an 18-month climbing trip around the world, and they had some great stories to tell. We were pleased to be able to show them some traditional Aussie hospitality – snags on the barbie!

Friday

As we planned to head off about midday, we packed up quickly. Feeling threatened by the rain clouds, we returned to Castle Crag so we could leave quickly if it started to rain. Jake did well by leading Trapeze, this time placing the gear himself. Damien enjoyed seconding this and also did very well on Swinging. This was a great way to end the trip, with Damien and Jake’s leading skills consolidated a fair bit. We arrived in Canberra around midnight.

Above: Jake leading Trapeze ** (11)

We had absolutely great weather throughout the trip, and everyone thoroughly enjoyed themselves. I am hoping to get back down sometime in the next couple of months, with the aim of leading at grades 15 and 16.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-Jul-2006
9:32:12 PM

A good read, and pleasing to see people enjoying their climbing.
It also confirms that you don't need high grade numbers to have fun and that climbing can also be about the social aspects of the game.
Thanks for posting it armyiain.

simey

17-Jul-2006
11:10:48 PM

On 17/07/2006 M9iswhereitsat wrote:
>A good read, and pleasing to see people enjoying their climbing. It also confirms that you don't need high grade numbers to have fun...

What shit. Nothing beats hanging out in Doggers Gully and working the bejeezus out of a climb for days and weeks on end. The sooner these bumblies start focusing on something too difficult for them and learn to hang off the rope and pull on all the gear, then they will discover the joy of free-climbing.

gravitychaser

18-Jul-2006
7:47:05 AM

Simon,

Are you suggesting that they actually spent way too much time climbing rather than hanging on a rope not ticking anything?

Jason

armyiain

18-Jul-2006
7:52:37 AM

Simey

You might have missed the last line - I have every intention of coming back soon and hanging on the rope when necessary. I am not adverse to taking a fall - I have done so before. The focus this time was on improving my mates placement skills. There isn't an abundance of easy enjoyable climbs in Canberra.

-deano-

18-Jul-2006
8:41:52 AM

cool. glad you guys had lots of fun. it was fun reading too. makes me wanna go back. maybe i should write up a tr of my own...

p.s. cheers for the lift into horsham :) hope i wasnt too smelly
see you next time.

gfdonc

18-Jul-2006
10:06:00 AM

Trip reports help make this forum worthwhile - thanks for taking the time and effort to post, enjoyed the read.

Onsight

18-Jul-2006
10:11:08 AM

On 17/07/2006 simey wrote:
>On 17/07/2006 M9iswhereitsat wrote:
>>A good read, and pleasing to see people enjoying their climbing. It also
>confirms that you don't need high grade numbers to have fun...
>
>What shit. Nothing beats hanging out in Doggers Gully and working the
>bejeezus out of a climb for days and weeks on end. The sooner these bumblies
>start focusing on something too difficult for them and learn to hang off
>the rope and pull on all the gear, then they will discover the joy of free-climbing.

Gotta frame that!

PS. I almost thought you were serious for a minute there Simey.

armyiain

18-Jul-2006
10:52:26 AM

haha. i didn't notice who the other post was from.

uwhp510

18-Jul-2006
11:15:05 AM

On 18/07/2006 armyiain wrote:

> There isn't an abundance of easy enjoyable
>climbs in Canberra.

Au contraire mon frere. Try these on for size;
marmalade, possum (with carezzissima finish), Hortensiza, Matrix, Gutz, Determinant (with terminant corner finish), denethor (with ivory coast finish), counter balance, sunstroke, drunken delight.

Then move onto; Peter Pan, Carezza, Hermes (take the Thor finish if you're feeling good), Fearon, Zog, Equilibrium etc...

ironmike

18-Jul-2006
11:46:41 AM

Thanks for this cool post. For those of us still reasonably new to playing on real rock, it's a good read. Gave me some good ideas for climbs that are under the 17 grade. Though I've climbed 22's indoors, it's a bit different out in the real world.

thanks again!

armyiain

18-Jul-2006
12:52:58 PM

Haha i've done some of those climbs (possum with carrazissama finish is especially good), but I have a knee condition which makes the Booroomba walkin pretty painful.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-Jul-2006
5:05:35 PM

>>hang off the rope and pull on all the gear, then they will discover the joy of free-climbing.
french free?
>Gotta frame that!
Yes!
>PS. I almost thought you were serious for a minute there Simey.
... me too.

Darrren

18-Jul-2006
7:15:47 PM

I think smily is serious thats what all the hard climbers do that i have ever known


Chalk Free

18-Jul-2006
8:38:03 PM

Go the bumblies.

I reckon Simey's been playing too much footy and it's starting to rot his brain.


adski

19-Jul-2006
12:29:29 AM

It sounds like almost everything you got on felt stiff for the grade, but you never fell? Sounds like the ol mind playing tricks. :-)

ironmike

19-Jul-2006
11:19:18 AM

Hah! So I may be a "Bumblie", but I'm humble enough to admit it and learn from others.

So ... all the "hard climbers" hang from ropes trying to get another tick.

There's more chest beating in this little thread than watching the mating habits of gorilla's on the discovery channel! hehe

I love pushing a climb and maybe taking a fall here or there, but then there's also a great deal of satisfaction to be gained from using what skills you do have to actually complete a climb that is within your limits, or perhaps slightly on the outer reaches of your limits.

I guess there are those of us humble enough to recognise that we still have pelnty of learning to do and are grateful for the guidance of the more experienced and generous climbers ... then there are those (no names mentioned of course) who are perhaps overcompensating for other "short"comings in their world, always talking about how hard they are ... yeah - uhhuh - rrrright! ... hmmmmmmm :o)

Oh man have I just opened myself for an attack ... oh well ... it's worth it! hehe

Bob Saki

19-Jul-2006
11:26:53 AM

i'd like to think that all climbers have one thing in common - to improve and therefore to climb something as opposed to hauling yourself up something.

And I guess if your shortcommings can be covered up by how good a climber you are I'm all for it. When the chips are down it's nice to be able to console yourself with what you have done well in life................................

ironmike

19-Jul-2006
11:31:22 AM

On 19/07/2006 Bob Saki wrote:
>When the chips are down it's nice to be able to
>console yourself with what you have done well in life................................

Well said!

brendan

19-Jul-2006
1:27:09 PM

hey Ian meet you guys at bandito wall about a month ago sounds like you guys had fun cool trip report and photos

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