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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Topic Date User
Stapylton 27-28 Sept 29-Sep-2003 At 8:35:03 PM jens
Message
So, I hear that people are ripping off my accent now! Ah well, "Hastala vista BABY!

Great trip report Mike, Here's what Roger and I got up to.
Sat started as described by you, with Piccolo, a 40m 11, the two stars well worth it. As I'm new to the outdoor climbing, I was surprised at the different feel of grades compared to the gyms. They could really catch you out, if you don't have someone experienced with you. The crux on Piccolo seemed anything but a grade 11, but then, what would I know. Roger picked well, and once on top, decided to have a go at Stentor, a 12m 16. As this is about 45 min into my first climbing experience, the step over the crack onto Stentor was a strange sensation. Once on, the route seemed more like a gym one. Vertical with small but positive holds diag. up. The abseil was fun, as it was my first. The twin ropes through my ATC and off I went. To me it was a nice end to a fantastic climbing beginning.

I started to understand the exposure effect and dealt with it best I could. After lunch Roger decided on a 2 pitch climb called Clytemnaestra Buttress 45m 10, just right of Muldoon, which was busy with another party. The chimney was short, but I had problems moving around in it. Damn, I wish I was a foot shorter. But as it turned out, I managed and the extra hight and with it reach, came in handy at the start of the second pitch. This is where I was supposed to step out onto a ledge no wider than my foot, while hanging on for dear life with one hand, and looking around for a hold high up out of sight. Thanks for the extra foot in hight!!! I suppose it wasn't too bad, but something in my head had been pondering this move while I belayed Roger on the second pitch. It's strange how your mind works. I'm sitting there for around 15min and just looking at the ledge, while doing what I'm supposed to do. I suppose that once you're there it isn't hard, but it's hard to get up of your little belay perch, with limbs as heavy as lead, with your butt glued to the rock.
Topped out, Roger decided to drop of the edge first, leaving me to get myself organised, before I abseiled into the abyss.

Night is coming, and Roger and I decided to call it a day. Back at camp we caught up with Michael, Brad and Brett. Nice night and it was nice for all of us to get to know one another. Fascinating to listen to Michael and Roger compare notes on different climbs and experiences. 16 years of climbing experiences, I was in good hands here!

The next morning arrived and we were slow to get our bodies up to working temperature after the sub zero night. Mike and co decided to do a climb at the very northern end, and Roger and I decided to catch up there. Unfortunately we got sidetracked and never found them. Roger was in charge of finding routes conducing to my skill-level. Panzer seemed a good choice, but as we arrived, a party of three TAFE climbers were already in preparation. It was quiet entertaining and somewhat unnerving to listen to the two instructed. When it was time for the instructor to climb, I noticed his belayer not paying much attention to what he was doing, but rather enjoying the sun that was warming his body. Roger and I looked at one another and decided that this could be a very long wait. So we decided to find something else.

Another 20min scramble through the bush and we found Harlequin Cracks, 80m 11. The two stars well deserved. This climb had everything I could have hoped for. The first pitch was a combination of slab and face climbing, with the second going up a crack where I could loose half my arm in. I was struggling onto the belay position in most ungraceful movements. Once there, and after another wait and belay, It was my turn to come up. Again not wanting to move out of my seat that had proven safe for the duration, although I was tense throughout my entire stay there. The last pitch was predominantly face climbing with holds appearing more frequently towards the to. I was grateful for this, as My strength was slowly running out. I must have been overly tense for the entire climb. Once on top, I was handsomely rewarded with great views, and looking across, I could see the earlier party topping out on Panzer. All in one piece.

After this 2 hour climb, roger and I decided to have lunch. Once we stopped and collapsed (well, me anyway) we decided to call it a day, as we still had 5 hours driving ahead of us. A quick look around for Mike, Brad and Brett, but unfortunately no sign. Thanks Mike, for the invitation, I would have not come up if I hadn't seen your posting.

I am very glad Roger came up with me. He picked fantastic limbs to introduce me to climbing, with great exposure, without getting to scared. Thanks Roger!!!

Till next time!

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