Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Set of 11 "Wallnuts" (1 to 11) N/B NEW Anodized colours!!! New "lighter" version. Steve's favourite wired Nuts.  $169.00
15% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Buffalo 11-12 Feb 06
WM
12/02/2006
10:37:36 PM
Not so much a trip report as a quick update on the amazing corner crack Silk and Satin (near WIlkinson's Lookout). The tireless John Schwerdfegger has clearly marked the way in with cairns (at the T-junction in the track 100m past young galaxians and 50m before wilkinsons, go straight ahead into the bush and they'll lead you straight there). More importantly he spent about an hour and a half giving the corner a somewhat overdue scrubbing, with the result that it is now beautifully clean....

better than Blimp?!

Other news from the weekend included:

* one-handed ascents of Peroxide Blonde were in vogue. HB's efforts on second (shown here mid-crux) were upstaged by a later clean one-handed redpoint...


* Jackie proved dreadlocks and haggis do mix:


* Mark proved poms can, in fact, clip bolts ... during a good onsight of They Dance Alone






nmonteith
13/02/2006
9:38:28 AM
[cross post from Chockstone News page]
A very strong team from Canberra has blitzed the North Wall over the past weekend. Using a rap in
and climb out approach (sport aiding?) they managed to climb several of the hardest aid routes in
Australia. On saturday the 11th of February they casually warmed up on Holden Caulfield (M6) then
moved onto the infamous HB testpiece Copperhead Road (M9). Chris Fitzgerald spent more than
seven hours inching his way up this frightening 50m long pitch which involves serious copperheading
miles above good gear. He finished the lead well after dark. Not content with doing Australias hardest
they returned the next day and spent another full day leading the second hardest aid pitch, Clouded
Queen (M8). This route involves 20 bodyweight only bathook moves straight off the belay, a potential
40m fall onto the slabby Ozymandias corner far below. The rest of Buffalo was in a similar frenzy of
activity. Malcolm Matheson and Adam Demmert were working a new 27 face project on the South Side
of the gorge, Neil Monteith and Hannah Lockie were freeing Defender of the Faith and a swarm of
others spent the weekend at The Hump and The Horn.
gemmaw
13/02/2006
10:48:22 AM
On 13/02/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>[cross post from Chockstone News page]
>A very strong team from Canberra has blitzed the North Wall over the past
>weekend. Using a rap in
>and climb out approach (sport aiding?) they managed to climb several of
>the hardest aid routes in
>Australia. On saturday the 11th of February they casually warmed up on
>Holden Caulfield (M6) then
>moved onto the infamous HB testpiece Copperhead Road (M9). Chris Fitzgerald
>spent more than
>seven hours inching his way up this frightening 50m long pitch which involves
>serious copperheading
>miles above good gear.

Just to add to that, in November last year Chris and 2 others aided 'Clouded Queen' from the ground up (with some variation on the lower section), Chris leading the crux pitch of 20 hook moves. Then on 26-28 Jan, Chris attempted to solo-aid (from the ground up over 3 days) 'Clouded Queen', linking into the crux pitch of 'Copperhead Road' . On the crux copperhead pitch, Chris dislodged a huge flake which would have previously been used for gear placements. Faced with the lateness of the day, a new blank section which he didn't want to resort to drilling, and other factors, Chris retreated at this point vowing to return.

On 11 Feb, Chris managed to get through the new blank section on the crux pitch of 'Copperhead Road' by hooking.

A fantastic effort from Chris and co. Well done!!!

nmonteith
13/02/2006
10:57:57 AM
Thanks for the update Gemma!
James
13/02/2006
12:41:28 PM
nice Will!

what's the gear on Silk & Satin? ie fingers / hands / fists? is the belay trad? sounds like a good route to go & do!

nmonteith
13/02/2006
12:52:02 PM
Some ok pics of Defender of the Faith are here.
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/1199119

We left the camera at the bottom of the route on the first day (and had to rap three pitches down to get it
on sunday!) so we din't get many action shots. Apparently Maxots got some wicked absiel photos of
Copperhead Road.
WM
13/02/2006
1:23:43 PM
>what's the gear on Silk & Satin?

lots of great wires (no RPs needed), plus single set of cams #0.5 - 3.5Fr

>is the belay trad?

top anchor is a big tree, you don't need an anchor at the bottom

>sounds like a good route to go & do!

Definitely.
James
13/02/2006
5:58:49 PM
in penitence for all his sandbags at Buffalo, I reckon John should clean out Status Quo as well!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14/02/2006
1:12:23 PM
>* one-handed ascents of Peroxide Blonde were in vogue. HB's efforts on second (shown here mid-crux) were upstaged by a later clean one-handed redpoint...
Awesome stuff and good (now historical) pic WM.

BTW; What grade is Silk and Satin?

On 13/02/2006 James wrote:
>in penitence for all his sandbags at Buffalo, I reckon John should clean
>out Status Quo as well!

It wouldn't make up for it!, as I suspect he is confirmed in his ways.

gemmaw wrote;
>A fantastic effort from Chris and co. Well done!!!

Yes indeed.
Great stuff !
It is excellent to see ongoing interest and success on these lines, & I look forward to hearing of more success in the future (both local and o'seas?), from these hard-men climbers.

Any thoughts from the participants re the grading nuances in respect of the crux's involved?


Jackie
22/03/2006
11:17:36 AM
Silk and satin so deserves at least two stars!!

M9 its goes at 21, simular vein to Blimp (20) at Bundaleer. Gaaargh the granite on this route is soo
smooth too

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints