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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author
Back to Buffalo

dan
2/10/2005
8:20:27 PM
G'day all,

Steve and I were back at Buffalo this Sunday and got some awesome climbing in.

We headed up to the Monolith to check out Morpheus and the bolts on the Monolyth itself.


You can see Steve pulling some awesome jamming moves on Morpheus. He'll be a crack climber yet!

Buffalo's famous bottomless crevases between boluders almost claimed on of Nadia's climbing shoes


I decided to test the reality of the ratings of Erectomy & Hitch-Hiker, for future reference Climbs should never be sandbagged by more than 2 grades!


Though I found some awesome jamming, it seems some of the crystals maintain their form (and sharpness!)


After lunch we headed over to the Oval and Waterfall Area for some fantasticly scenic climbing (both climbs with a *, rare for buffalo!)


For the last climb of the day we got onto Wicked Solataire. Had I known there was crack this good at Buffalo last year, I would have quit early and camped up there until the rangers booted me out for scavenging in the Buffalo campsite!

Awesome, CLEAN!, laybacking. 100% recomended.

I have time for two more daytrips to Buffalo before I go & you can bet I'll be hitting more climbs like this :)

neats
3/10/2005
7:27:12 AM
Wow! nice pics fella's, looks like the weather was awesome!

Jackie
3/10/2005
2:38:04 PM
ARGH! Great pics, im o/s at mo and getting excited about returning in time for buffalo season
feel free to post more pics ;) (and ill live vicariously thru u!)

gordoste
3/10/2005
3:44:12 PM
totally agree with dan's comment on wicked solitaire, an awesome pitch. (we only did the second pitch).


On 2/10/2005 ti wrote:
>Especially like the photo with the waterfall. Any good as a slippery dip?


Not if you want to keep the skin on your backside!!

dan
3/10/2005
6:34:51 PM
>Especially like the photo with the waterfall. Any good as a slippery dip?

There is a spot closer to the bridge where you could attempt to slide thorugh. I wouldn't recomend it though (see scenic photo from lookout, the tallest drop on the waterfall is about 90m about a 280m drop total.

For vicarious living there are more pictures at:
Mt. Buffalo 2005-10-02

Paulie
3/10/2005
10:26:06 PM
Nice one Dan...good pics mate.

Jackie, when are you guys planning on heading up next?

Paul
Duncan
4/10/2005
10:04:24 AM
On 3/10/2005 Jackie wrote:
>ARGH! Great pics, im o/s at mo and getting excited about returning in time
>for buffalo season
>feel free to post more pics ;) (and ill live vicariously thru u!)

When is Buffalo season?

nmonteith
4/10/2005
10:06:13 AM
Now is the season! Jan/Feb/March can be too hot.

dan
4/10/2005
6:57:30 PM
Temperature and exposure can be an issue (I have a had a few serious tans in winter). For friction, I am told the temprature now is excellent for average finger tip holds on crystals. But, being 10 degrees cooler than sea level it dosen't pass into the high 30's.

I have climbed Nowra in Jan-Feb (yes the rock sweats, you sweat it's all good) and many a broiling day at Frog (forearm jams get questionable), so I guess it's all a matter of perspective. Just get up there, try to avoid the peak summer public holidays, or book your camp site way ahead.
citationx
7/10/2005
12:16:30 PM
>Awesome, CLEAN!, laybacking. 100% recomended

laybacking wicked solitaire?
hahahah that's crazy talk.
laybacking lift girl's lament i can understand...
-steven-

gordoste
7/10/2005
3:10:47 PM
Seriously, that's the only way I could get up it!! One layback move from the flake allowed me to get a bomber footjam and handjam. Then it was all over bar a bit of grunting!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/10/2005
11:27:22 AM
On 2/10/2005 ti wrote:
>nice photos.. makes me excited about my trip there this summer (cross fingers)
>
>Especially like the photo with the waterfall. Any good as a slippery dip
>: )

The linked Yahoo site* (*see warning below), lists this climb as 'Fantasies of Gail' but it is not.
F of G is further left (away from the waterfall & closer to Country Road) and is basically a slab all the way. Without looking at the guide I can't tell you what you were on, but suspect strongly that it is one of the mikl routes in that area or more likely the top of a Geoff Gledhill route that starts much lower down and comes up near the waterfall (on that side).

*Warning. re
>For vicarious living there are more pictures at: Mt. Buffalo 2005-10-02
By the way that linked yahoo site kept trying to send my computer a known spybot threat which my antiviral stuff blocked.

>Any good as a slippery dip
No.
Death if you try due massive exposure in that area ...

gordoste
8/10/2005
3:36:51 PM
Just checked the guide... looks like we were on the second pitch of "Falls Corner" - put up by G. Gledhill and M. Law :) Thanks M8 !! (pun intended).

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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