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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports
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Topic
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Date |
User
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TR - Mt Buffalo Southside Gorge FA |
13-Apr-2018 At 7:56:37 PM |
IdratherbeclimbingM9
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Message |
On 13-Apr-2018 Miguel75 wrote:
>Super stoked for your BigChris. It’s a proud line (snip)
+1
>
>For all those who are happy to bang on about the desecration these bolts
>represent, you’ve had 50+ years to get on it and climb it in a style that
>you consider worthy (snip)
I can see the dis-join arising here in that the younger climber of today hasn’t been born long enough ago to fulfill that statement due either not being in existence or not learning climbing with that older yardstick.
>
>MartyM and Jay, you guys are happy to have a casual dig about the number,
>and placements, of the bolts but have either of you tried it? Once you
>two go climb it a-la Mark Davies, in the pic of Monarch, then you can pontificate
>all you like;)
>
The others can speak for themselves however the fact that you cited the Monarch example is proof positive of the existence of the earlier yardstick and dare I say a level of achievement to aspire too.
Not everyone is an Alex Honnold, but none the less I can think of a number of climbers, who if they had cared to climb that line, would probably have done so in a bolder style than that dictated by today’s shorter measure style.
Regardless, the positive aspect of this ascent is that Typhon in its current state may well turn out to be a popular stepping stone to the older style for generations that follow. |
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