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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
St. Antonin Noble Val, near Montauban, France

jkane
6/08/2009
2:54:12 PM
Does anyone have any information on this area. I found it here
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Europe/France/14-_Western_and_SW_France/St-Antonin_Noble_Val/

I'm visiting my parents in September, they live near Beaumont de Lomagne which is about 50Km NW of Toulouse. This seems to be the closest climbing area to them.

Also any other areas which are within a few hours drive. There are a few areas around Nimes too which lack detail. Gorges du Tarn looks good and there's already a bit of beta for that on Chockstone.

I'm not planning to take my trad rack so probably looking at single pitch with a single 60 or 70M rope up to about grade 19.
gfdonc
6/08/2009
3:29:41 PM
I recall Joe G. (I think) raving about Gorges du Tarn.

jkane
6/08/2009
3:33:55 PM
Yep, I saw on another thread that he was planning to go when he did his big trip (last year?). Hopefully I'll catch up with him at the gym in the next week or two and get some advice. Joe always generously over estimates my abilities though.

I'm planning to send my dad out on a guide book hunt too. Should be a good test of his French.

Garrath
7/08/2009
8:13:02 AM
According to my map of all the climbing areas in France, it is the closest area. Around 200 climbs scattered amongst 3 crags. Further North is Ceou with around 180 routes. Gorge du Tarn has already been mentioned but may be above your grade.

To the E and SE of Toulouse is Le Clape and Vingrua. To the North of Montpellier is Thurac.

I have climbed at Le Clape and Thurac and both are great for climbing up to grade 19. I would recommend you take a 60m rope.

If you want some further info, feel free to contact.

jkane
7/08/2009
9:27:50 AM
Cheers Garrath, that's useful stuff. I may be in touch.

Garrath
7/08/2009
11:24:01 AM
A good place to start in looking for guidebooks is FNAC (major book, CD, DCD and gaming chain) Otherwise the local pub closest to the crag is always a fun place to start, If they don't have it they can usually point you in the right direction.
Raph
7/08/2009
7:50:14 PM
Hey,

I am French in Melbourne for a little moments.

If you want to get some climbing guide in France don't go to the FNAC this is a really big store and you might be find nothing about climbing. The best it's to go at the bottom of the crags and ask the locals climbers they will help you. Generraly you can find the climbing book of the local area where you are in the closest bar or "tabac presse". I never climb near Toulouse I am from the french Alps. But if I have one advice to give you it's to go to the Gorge du Tarn this is a awesomeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee spot with a tone of routes, all level, up to 200m, always bolted pretty well, after your climb you can enjoy a beer in the river "Le Tarn". A 70m rope and quick draws are enough. I think it's like 3h drive from Toulouse.

Oterhwise you are speaking about going near Nimes, you can go to a nice spot called Russan (too hot in summer) there are a tones of routes too. But one advice to the spot near Nimes WATCH OUT your car leave nothing in it, the best is too open the doors and the trunk, by this way they can see there is nothing in it, they don't still the car but the stuff inside. But in "Le Tarn" this is ok but be carrefull in France this is really to still in the car, not by the climbers but by the others people.

Otherwise man you can go to "les Pyrénées" a mountain range between France and Spain, Alpin stuff, long routes, trad, sport,.... I think 2h from Toulouse. But my advice is to go to "Le Tarn" this is a really major spot in France and it's beautiful too.

Feel free if you have some question

Enjoy your climb in France

Cheers

Raph

contactgav
7/08/2009
9:23:51 PM
le Desert do Saint Guihiem is very good. by memory. near montpellier near an old monatsryin a big valley.
maybe raph could provide some more beta..
it was in early 2000 i went there.

Garrath
8/08/2009
8:54:14 AM
I have had quite a bit of luck with buying guides in Fnac. As for St Giulhem le Desert, I was there about a month ago and I asked in Tourism Office about climbing. Banned it is and has been for abour 5 years, which is a real big shame. Still worth the visit though, the village itself is lovely and the walk up the valley is great as well.

jkane
10/08/2009
2:06:51 PM
Thanks for that Raph,

again useful stuff.

I've been to the Gorge du Tarn once and the Pyrenees a few times but never for rock climbing. My parents have been living around Toulouse for about 18 years.

Cheers,

Jim

garrath
10/08/2009
6:45:42 PM
On a side note, checking out some of the Cathar castles is a must. Peyrepertuse is an awesome ruin and a hell of a lot more fun in the off season eg no tourists.
dazasterplan
11/08/2009
4:50:00 PM
Speaking of castles, there is some great ninjacastlestorming to be had in the area, and there is an xcellent dying castle at the base of Russan cliff on the river; which once provided me a 1st class doss. Russan is a great little crag a Raph noted xcept for the local thievery corporation. Guidebooks always seem widely available but quickly out of date.

jkane
29/10/2009
1:52:26 AM
The climbing area is referred to as Gorges de L'Aveyron. St. Antonin is the town at the NE end of the Gorge. It's a beautiful place and well woth a visit. You can get the guide book from the tourist office in St Antonin.

As you drive up the Gorge, you will see the many climbing areas like this one which I think is part of Le Capucin


I went to Manjo-carn which has about 160 routes ranging from 4 to 8c+ It also has easy access with a bar and swimming hole at the foot of the crag. A very easy place to spend time.


I reckon you could do some "shallow water bouldering" on that too.

pmonks
29/10/2009
3:19:42 AM
Just out of interest, did you get Le Clape while you were there?

[EDIT] That should have read "did you get to Le Clape ..."

jkane
29/10/2009
10:08:59 AM
No, I only managed to get 1 days climbing in. But I'll definitely be going back to St. Antonin because it's so close (45 min) to my parents place.

[post edit] oh, and I did appreciate the joke. Was just in work mode so switched off the sense of humor whilst typing. My uncle was in the merchant navy and he used to wear a t-shirt that said "I caught crabs in Karachi". I was so young I asked him how you catch a crab. My brother had to explain it to me later when my parents had left the room, presumably to laugh their tits off.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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