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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Jolls Bridge?

Dr Box
17/04/2009
9:35:47 AM
Hi

any one climbed here recently? i've got the guide off the sun surf and sandstone, just wondering about any more local info; whats it like, routes to do, access etc?
thinking of heading there tomorrow
cheers

nmonteith
17/04/2009
9:39:10 AM
I haven't technically climbed there - but did check it out in person earlier this year. It's very spread out and pretty 1980s in style (mixed climbing on carrots). It looked very unused, the base of the cliff was quite overgrown in places, and i saw no sign of chalk apart from one overhung sport route.
madtaffy1
17/04/2009
10:19:19 AM
Climbed there in July 2007. Acces was overgrown unless you walk along the guradrail and rap in. I thought the climbs were pretty average, definately old skool style and the rock pretty soft. Haven't been back!
Winston Smith
17/04/2009
10:29:00 AM
It's crap.

Soft rock. Old bolts.

If you're driving from Sydney it takes almost as much time to get there as the Blueys.


lofty
17/04/2009
4:36:04 PM
Pretty much agree with all the other comments. The cliff line is quite broken, so unless you're with someone in-the-know you'll not find the good areas/climbs (there are some parts that are worth it, just not as many as suggested by the guide).

It hardly ever gets used, so is generally vegitated and dirty. Definately old skool.

It's supposed to rain here tomorrow too

dr box
18/04/2009
1:04:39 PM
well the rain was supposed to come, but it didnt
instead my partners bailed....maybe tomorrow...in the rain
thanks for the info, the guide made it sound much better

wombly
18/04/2009
5:35:37 PM
it's really one of those places that you've got make your own mind up for. I've enjoyed a
few good days out there, but can see why the general masses might stay away. There's
definitely good stuff there (woodface is a classic), the location is good, and you won't be
disturbed by raging crowds.


christos
20/04/2009
4:27:23 PM
Itís been a few years since Iíve been there and Iíve only been to about 25% of it, but itís provided some great memories of full value climbing. Donít be put off. Generally rings and FHís are on the harder routes where required. Sun hits the walls around noon.

From the car you can walk north and then drop down the ramp at the north end of Ten Pin Gully or walk south to a short rap in from above Bad Luck Silverback.

Of what I can remember I recommend: One Sick Puppy (rings), High Goose Stepping Action, Feelin Kinda Sporty, I'd Rather Be Fishing and Texas.
TonyB
30/04/2009
5:12:01 PM
Is parking permitted through the break in the barriers on the freeway, or do you still have to park on the old highway and bash up under the bridge ?

nmonteith
30/04/2009
5:18:22 PM
i just bashed up under the bridge. took less than 15 minutes.

rodw
30/04/2009
7:53:24 PM
Nah its banned tonyb...have to bash up from old highway
TonyB
30/04/2009
9:00:18 PM
Thanks guys. We're going to check it out on Saturday.

dr box
1/05/2009
2:03:13 PM
hay, just park on the HWY other people do.
by the way i finally got there the other weekend end, but i went the wrong way from under the bridge....1hr and a half later finally found the crag. only by luck mind you. we went way to far down hill. so dont do that. we ended up running out of time and energy and didnt climb anything. so next time
if you dont want to park on the hwy walk up to bridge, then go up onto hwy and walk along the edge of it until you see the fence on the top of the cliff. much easier and its short
have fun

lofty
1/05/2009
3:02:13 PM
I was there the same day as poor Dr Box, but parked on the freeway. 5 minutes from car to the base of our first climb.
Had been there a couple of times previously, but last weekend i was with a couple of the guys who developed the crag, so had a proper tour with advice on what to do and what not to do.
climbed High Goose Stepping action and Son of a Gun, and can testify these are fantastic climbs which would rate stars at any crag IMO. Many other climbs looked awesome too (Corrosion Castle for example), so I've totally revised my opinion of the place.

Goin back on Sunday arvo in fact
drdeviousii
1/05/2009
3:17:23 PM

>Definately old skool.

so those older timers did have an eye for a crag/decent line after all?

rodw
1/05/2009
3:20:38 PM
Just re Hwy, its only banned if ya get caught :)...most weekends the boys in blue have better things to do...and the RTA type dudes have enough trouble working normal hours let alone the weekend...but "officially" it is banned.
TonyB
17/05/2009
9:18:26 AM
Some people parked in a spot on the freeway yesterday that looked legal ... 20m North of the car park, behind the barrier, on dirt ... just space for one car.
We also found an easy way to Wall of Thighs ... walk up the side of the freeway to 150m North of the carpark, head left up the culvert to the crest of the hill, then head North. Saves lots of bush bashing.

rodw
18/05/2009
4:34:28 PM
I couple of weeks ago on the way past I saw 3 cars parked just north of the "car park", so cars can fit there.
dmnz
18/05/2009
5:10:15 PM
On 1/05/2009 rodw wrote:
>Just re Hwy, its only banned if ya get caught :)...most weekends the boys
>in blue have better things to do...and the RTA type dudes have enough trouble
>working normal hours let alone the weekend...but "officially" it is banned.

yeah, to commit a crime you have to be caught first

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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