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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

taming the testpieces by trickery ? 11-May-2004 At 11:15:51 AM (removed)

Message

My email response to Neil ...

"It's not really that hideous. Just traverse out the slopey roof the whole way (climb it like a real roof, left heel on the slopes hands leading), there's not much positive for your hands so don't bother looking, just accept that you have to pull on slopes and do it quickly because it gets pumpy. Go all the way to the very end (quite good hold right at lip), and then there's a decent pull back up and LEFT. The holds immediately above the end of the roof are not great. From there you can pull up into the groove. The pull over the lip is the crux, although you're more likely to fall off in the groove since it's so pumpy. Everything is rounded in the groove, even the positive jugs. And up near the top, it's a little run out and I ended up doing a "wrist-dyno" (fingers had nothing left, had to catch the holds with my wrists) onto the chicken heads facing an ENORMOUS fall. It's a magnificent mind trip.

Get someone to climb with you to the Pitch 2 belay though next time. If you fall over the lip while being belayed from the ground, you're going to end up a long way down indeed. How did you go with Pitch 2 ? I have some tricks for that bit as well. Dunno what it is about this climb, Tim Fahey belayed me on it, and he basically refused to give Pitch 3 a shot. They're missing out."