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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range The Gallery (General) [ Gallery Guide | Images ] 

Author
New easy sport routes opposite Gallery cave

nmonteith
14/02/2005
11:40:07 AM
I spied a new bolted route on the juggy grey wall directly opposite Weaveworld at The Gallery. It climbs an obvious right facing wide corner (offwidth then chimney) with three bolts (one u-bolt and 2 FHs). It finishes at a double u-bolt lower-off - with mallion. The climb is about grade 16. It is actually quite a fun route - you can climb the face to the right of the corner on good incut holds. You only need to do a few easy chimney moves near the end.

Does anyone know the first ascent details?

nmonteith
14/02/2005
3:44:08 PM
We have a winner! [gotta love the internet!]

The Educator  15m 16
Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing 1 u-bolt and 2 fixed hangers. At the 2nd fixed hanger move right to doubly bolt lower off.
First ascent: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams October 2004

shaggy
14/02/2005
4:10:33 PM
Hey, not bad with the grade estimate Neil!

nmonteith
10/11/2006
12:56:08 PM
KP - care to share some details about your new routes at the Gallery? Im pretty keen to have a crack at
them this weekend.
WM
10/11/2006
1:22:47 PM
Please also send 'em in to the VCC new routes page , together with other additions at VD Land, Amnesty, etc etc. That also goes for the Ruined Castle Neil!

kp
10/11/2006
1:41:32 PM
The Gallery.

Bang, Bang You're Dead! 24
Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 u bolts to Lower Off.

Going Blank Again 22
Start 5m right of BBYD!. Balancy start past U bolt. 5 more Fh's (last one is hidden) show the way to the anchor.


Amnesty wall.

Hope of the States 23
Start as tyrants grasp. Traverse left at 3rd bolt past many U's to anchor.


VD land.

The Brian Jonestown Massacre 26
Line of U's next to slanty crack, under Janes addiction. the pikers varient (avoiding the pocket) is 24.

Happiness In Magazines 25
Start up BJM past 6 bolts. Traverse left accross pockets, until joining My Bloody Valentine. Pumpy. 2nd pitch (23, 5 bolts) goes up prominent flake.




Good Times


nmonteith
10/11/2006
1:43:52 PM
Any potential for other newies on that wall KP?

phil_nev
10/11/2006
1:46:05 PM
I wana go to the gallery.... :(
kp
10/11/2006
1:50:00 PM
Definently.

Two easyish routes go up the cracks to the right then up a slab, to a little overhang. You must remember though, that a precedent has been set and under no circumstances are naturally protected routes allowed on this wall.

nmonteith
10/11/2006
1:52:18 PM
ha ha! I've got single carrot i could place KP. Im sure i could ruin your dream somehow!

phil_nev
10/11/2006
1:55:59 PM
Bring on the victorian decent gully walls!!!!

nmonteith
12/11/2006
10:45:56 PM
Going Blank Again got about 10 repeats on saturday. Noice.

Super Saiyan
9/12/2006
7:34:36 PM
Yeah, I second that Noice... Did it today, ended up skipping the last bolt (didnt remember where it was), excellent warm up!

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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