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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
North Wall descent

macey
12/12/2008
9:07:47 PM
Hi. Ive climbed at Buffalo a fair bit over the last few years though have never been on the north wall. I,ve read the guide book and have decided it will probably be a while before I can make an ascent of anything on it as the grades are out of my grasp for the time being. What I WOULD like to do however, is rap down the wall for a bit of fun and walk out of the gorge to to be picked up by my fiance Nicci. Can anyone give me any tips on the ease of this descent, whether the rap stations are in line, how easy the track is to find and any funky little manouvres I may need to make..? It looks reasonably straight forward in the guide, though Id appreciate any beta which would make my descent safer and easier. Ive done multi-pitch descents before and am well experienced in the technical aspect of things, just after any helpful beta anyone has to offer.....
fish boy
12/12/2008
9:10:23 PM
Which way were you wanting to go down?

Comet Ramp, Defender Rap or just throwing a long static will get you there, but that's what the guide tells you anway.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/12/2008
10:32:10 PM
Dave Chitty has his 200m abseil down, just left (facing out) of Fuhrer. This avoids the three pitch abseil off re-belays down Defender of The Faith to Fuhrer Ledge, and is done as one long abseil.
The reason I mention Daves abseil is that directly below where it hits Fuhrer Ledge, and a short scramble down to the obvious 'point', he has a further bolt re-belay that you can use to get down to Crystal Brook (2 further abs on double std length ropes?). From here the quickest 'out' up the south side is up right of Angels Buttress to Sewer Wall then on up to the oval.
This ascent can be a bit tricky in the vicinity of the cave/hole (2/3 height), for direction finding, and in wet weather can be difficult scrambling in the vicinity of where the old sewer pipe goes over a small drop-off (easier to climb the pipe!)...

The other alternative (once on Fuhrer is to proceed down Comet Ramp by 3 more abseils in the direction of Ozymandias to its base. The standard sth side track 'out' is then used after negotiating Crystal Brooks three channels in that vicinity. If you have not done it before then it can be a bit deceptive to follow as well, and I would recommend sussing it out by walking down it beforehand, so you know where it goes.
Track is not really a good description for it, as it has some downclimbing and some exposed portions skirting along/around dropoffs.

Your other alternatives from the base of Ozy area are to contour on the left (nth wall side) of the gorge down and around till you strike the road going from the base of mtn up to its top. It has many boulder-dropoffs to negotiate and is true bush-bashing as there is no defined track.
It is also further than you think it would be!

The last (& longest), option is to keep following Crystal Brook till it meets up with Eurobin Creek entering from the right, and then follow it downstream to the top of Eurobin Falls. The left side (looking D/stream) of Eurobin Falls is the easiest side to negotiate back to a 'made' track.
Once again, this is true bush-bash and boulder-negotiating territory.
~>I have heard there are still japanese in there who have not given up since the war ended ...
Heh, heh, heh.

Bring some binoculars and I can meet you up there some time to point out relevant landmarks ...
~> Nail a time with me vide PM.

macey
15/12/2008
6:17:25 PM
Thanks for the beta mate, I appreciate the knowledge of seasoned climbers like yourself. First hand experience is so much more valuable than what any guidebook can offer. I think I'll head down Defender to Fuhrer ledge, then continue down comet ramp to the base of Ozy. Going to spend an arvo checking out the walk in/out as I don't really want to be wandering round for lost for hours. As phone reception can crap, I have a couple of hand held UHF radios which have a 6km range, so I can still contact my girlfriend when I get bitten by a snake!! must head off to the kids school concert now, so thanks again and see you over xmas sometime.
gfdonc
15/12/2008
11:59:22 PM
Good luck with that. For some more info, check my trip report (in my profile).
As noted there, crossing the brook can be problematic.

The Defender rap is fun, consider extending the chain though (and retrieving your gear later). The rap down Comet ramp is easy to find from there, but watch out for loose crap in the gully - helmet.
The walkie-talkies are a great idea.

The main "wrong turn" is about 1/4 of the way up the gorge, where it looks like you head right towards some slabs, but that dead-ends. Instead, look for a short scramble up a steep wall with an old rope to grab onto. (Depending on your shoe rubber, this will be the crux of the whole ascent).

I've walked out twice, once via the wrong-turn (we ended up abseiling to get back on route), the other time more successfully (if you count such an extended walk-of-shame a success).

Travel light, it's all uphill with some steep scrambling in spots. You'll have two ropes with you of course.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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