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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Melbourne (General) (General) (General) [ Melbourne Guide ] 

Author
anchors at werribee
tgiblin50
9/11/2008
11:26:08 PM
being quite inexperienced in outdoor climbing was wanting some thoughts on what makes a safe anchor? was at werribee gorge the other day and wondering if its safe to top rope off just the anchor points with no other protection? or using two carabineers that were bolted to the top of a climb?

shamus
9/11/2008
11:54:12 PM
Been a while since i've been there and not quite clear on your question, but here goes. Parks Vic placed some anchors along the top of the cliff to save trees etc being used. Treat them kinda like a double-bolted belay. Attach to both of them, get a central piece that is over the cliff edge and top-rope off that. They should be solid for many years to come. If you're talking about a double ring-bolt belay / bolt-plates+mallions at the top of a climb, dont top-rope off it. Its not automatically dangerous, but will wear out the bolts, so they'll need to be replaced much sooner, more damage to the rock. Place a quick-draw through both, put the rope through the draws and top-rope off that. When you're cleaning the climb, just place the rope through the rings when you're finished to be lowered off.
tgiblin50
10/11/2008
12:20:48 AM
sorry wasnt real clear. Was talking about the anchor points put in by parks victoria. is it safe to top rope off a single one? the carabineers i was talking about were about 40cm apart bolted at the top of a climb at the far end of the cliff (Redex Irlont Sudano? i think)

shamus
10/11/2008
12:48:58 AM
No, dont top-rope off a single one. Put slings / cord to each anchor point, extend them out and equalise so you can put a central piece over the edge of the cliff to run the rope through. Would use an independent locking biner on the end of each extender and put the rope through both. And the same goes for the fixed gear, attach with a draw or something to each, get a nice solid central piece / pair of biners, rope through that.

throwback
10/11/2008
8:03:13 AM
Those fixed anchors at Werribee can tend to be quite a long way back from the cliff edge and fairly well spaced apart (depending on the climb) so investing in a good long length of static rope to do the rigging at the top can help with setting up your toprope.
Maybe 15 or 20m even?

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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