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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Ring bolted routes on top tier of Goldirocks

Pat B
3/11/2008
1:27:56 PM
Anyone know what the two ring bolted routes are on the top tier of Goldirocks are? They're in the middle of the crag near where the ledge breaks down. Maybe right of Huff and Puff on nice orange wall. The left route has three ring bolts, the right has four.

nmonteith
3/11/2008
4:37:53 PM
They aren't mine!

Pat B
3/11/2008
4:54:15 PM
When I say does anyone know what they are, I only ask 'cause I led the right hand route yesterday, think it's about 21 and then it started to rain so that was the end of the day, but they don't look very new, just more recent than Kieran's guide

nmonteith
3/11/2008
5:38:06 PM
Ring's were extremely rare in the Grampians until after 2000. The only crag that I can think that had them prior to that was Millennium Caves. I would think that rings would date the route's as being quite recent. Certainly after the Tempest onslaught of the 90s.

Pat B
3/11/2008
5:49:39 PM
Now I'm confused Neil! The bolts are U-shaped, do we call them ring bolts or something else?

nmonteith
3/11/2008
6:08:51 PM
...they would be called u-bolts then! But most of the time they are just referred to as ringbolts as they look pretty much the same anyway. Hmmmm, are you sure they look old? U-bolts have only been used in the Grampians in the last 3 years, mostly by either me or Joe Goding.

Pat B
3/11/2008
6:15:25 PM
The araldite(?) has gone yellow around the bolts which means in my limited knowledge that they have been there for long enough for the UV to get to them, and the excess glue has peeled away from the rock on the first bolt at least which would infer that expansion and contraction of the rock has broken the bond there. How long do you think that takes?
PS Do you know a contact for Joe, I'll ask him

muki
3/11/2008
7:18:25 PM
If there is a bridge of glue between the two legs, then it is a ring bolt, single stem in the shape of a P, the
hole is drilled, then counter sunk so that after the glue is put in the only part visible is the U shaped steel
that is for clipping.
The other type of glue in (apart from glue in machine bolts) is a U bolt with two holes drilled then glued.
The U bolt has no visible glue between the two legs, the glue usually looks like dried toothpaste.
It should not look clear like araldite!

Pat B
3/11/2008
7:40:37 PM
Yeh, thanks for that Bomber, definitely U-bolts, glue is not clear or toothpaste-coloured

nmonteith
3/11/2008
10:43:56 PM
The old version of Megapoxy two-part epoxy (a Mike Law favorite style of glue) was clear and looks a bit like araldite.

Excess glue peeling away?! Sounds like very dodgy glue or extreme fire damage - not something that happens to normal glue in bolts - even after 20 years.

Pat B
4/11/2008
6:56:13 AM
Hadn't considered fire damage, when did the fire go thru there? Trees are black, but there's a lot of regeneration, must be four or more years ago. Interestingly there was a bit of loose rock on the cliff, I thought this was because it doesn't get much traffic, but then I pulled a hold off above the second bolt on the aforementioned climb and fell off. Was suprised as the hold in question looked solid as opposed to a couple of others that definitely weren't, and weren't nescessary to complete the route. Second bolt seems OK! Glue on first bolt is only coming away slightly around the top hole.

Pat B
6/11/2008
5:04:31 PM
So.... to get back to my original question, does anyone know what the bolted routes are at the top tier of Goldirocks?
ademmert
7/11/2008
10:33:42 AM
Where is goldirocks??

shiltz
7/11/2008
10:40:52 AM
Down near Mountain Lion I think. It's in the old victoria ranges guide.

cruxmag
7/11/2008
8:25:43 PM
Ramon Francis, or some of the other Portland crew might be responsible? They place rings.

Pat B
8/11/2008
2:07:14 PM
As Neil pointed out above, I, technically, should have called them U-bolts

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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