17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
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[Posters drdeviousii, Pat, Capt_mulch, bomber pro, and Wingello panther, had their contributions to the thread removed for clarity sake as they were queries to confusion created by the initial troll post, regarding where Lost Boys route goes].
>'...The Lost Boys on Mt. Warning is definitely a multi day affair. It has never received a one day ascent nor I believe will it. It is 580 metres long and most pitches are grade 23. Access is some what problematic as you have to perform a 4 to 5 hour slog through the rainforest to even get to the base of the wall. That will put you behind the eight ball even before you start. Put aside at least 4 days for this outing and you'll be golden.
>Rap in from the top to set your camp on a tiny ledge big enough for two and then continue to the bottom for the start. Best to get yourself guided in so that you can actually find the wall surprisingly enough. The rainforest is so thick that you will only glimpse the huge wall rarely on theway in. Parties have had all day epics flailing around in the oh so thick wait-a-while vine. Not recommended that you try to find your own way in. There are reports of at least two parties wishing to do Lost Boys next winter. Oh yes, don't attempt to do this wall during summer, you will cook as it faces north and is subject to sun all day and the wall is very dark brown to black. Can you imagine the heat off that in summer. I'm told that Tim Balla the creator of Lost Boys did some of the gargantuan development in summer, brave man.There are a couple of one day affairs on the wall as well...'
Phil Box wrote
Lost Boys starts at around about the second A in Australia in that pic. Now finding your way in to the start is the crux of the climb. It can be done via the tourist track but that is a horrendous aproach and finding the top of the route to ab in is like trying to find the proverbial needle in a hay stack.
Conversely walking in via the Tyalgum Ridge Road is equally a chore due to the very indistinct track we put in. It is constantly being overgrown and dead fall from the rain forest canpoy obliterates the track regularly.
This wall is definitely adventure climbing at its finest. There are a few of us who know its secrets.
old fart wrote
I know what you mean. I was lucky enough to be draged up down and around that route when Tim was still in the bolting faze. I belayed him while he put in the bolts for the second pitch. It tunred out to be a 19 hour day for just two bolts hand drilled on lead with shy hooks. It felt like i would die by the time we got out but i loved every minute of it.
Phil box wrote
On 16/07/2008 old fart wrote:
>I know what you mean. I was lucky enough to be draged up down and around
>that route when Tim was still in the bolting faze. I belayed him while
>he put in the bolts for the second pitch. It tunred out to be a 19 hour
>day for just two bolts hand drilled on lead with shy hooks. It felt like
>i would die by the time we got out but i loved every minute of it.
Tim Bella's effort putting The Lost Boys up was monumental. I know how hard that rock is. I've put a few bolts in there and it takes about an hour per 60mm deep 10mm hole.
I heard he took ten years to finish the route. He even went out thee and baked on the north facing cliff during summer. That was hard core, that rock is so black from the lichen that coats it that it just would be a furnace.
Phil Box wrote
I'll be heading in there some time in August as will Duncan and Lee. They are going to attempt a one day ascent. They failed last year due to a torrential downpour.
Note that due to the very thick rainforest cover GPS works very intermittently at best. Compass is the way to go. Take seceteurs to cut the waitawhile vine that will inevitably tangle you up.
Tim Balla, He'll always be a throbbing squirm to me...
On 17/07/2008 hero wrote:
>Tim Balla, He'll always be a throbbing squirm to me...