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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge (General) (General) [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Crimes of Passion
Sparkles
15/07/2008
9:58:51 PM
I was wondering if anyone knew about this great looking route in the gorge? It looks fantastic, and I am planning a trip down pretty soon. Any help would be great.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/07/2008
12:33:10 PM
From Mt Buffalo Guide 5th edition 2006 Lindorff / Murray.

Crimes Of Passion 109m M7
Two medium copperheads and two bird-beaks required.
(1) 24m As for (1) of Ozymandias Direct. (2) 35m As for Lord Gumtree for 10m then follow diagonal crack up to 2BHB. (3) 50m continue up crack past a grassy L leading crack to join Lord Gumtree.
Andrew McCauly, Vera Wong Easter 1995.

In my opinion this description (above) is misleading, and Pitch one should read (1) 24m As for (1) of Ozymandias.

[ie, Direct]

Basically CoP is a RH variation of the 2nd/3rd pitch of Lord Gumtree, (given that its first pitch is a common one with Ozymandias).

The lower pitches are lichenous/vegetated. The upper pitches are clean.

>I am planning a trip down pretty soon.
Buffalo has had good snowfall lately ...


sparkles
17/07/2008
2:25:20 PM
Thanks M9. I know where it is - ive been eyeing it for a long time. I was just wondering if anyone had climbed it recently (ie how are the belays etc). Sounds like it will be fun! Im actually going chasing the snow experience - I have climbed the north wall in may and late august, but neither had that real 'alpine' feel that I figure I will get this time. I will post a trip report when I get back.
WM
17/07/2008
3:45:10 PM
when I did the ACA topos those cracks looked super mossy and dirty and generally gross. so aid climbers probably think its a classic. i can send you the high res versions of my photos if thats any help
Sparkles
21/07/2008
2:23:39 PM
Mmmmm... It does sounds a bit like the aid climbers dream! The high res pics would be great to have: morley_marcus@hotmail.com. Thanks guys!

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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