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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 43
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Guides updates Muline, Red Rocks, Ruined Castle

andyR
31/01/2007
1:44:01 PM
We're heading out to Vic Range this weekend and we're hoping to climb Red Rocks, and maybe Ruined Castle and may check out Muline crag. Easier routes at Eureka Wall a possibility also. We're camping Buandik Fri + Sat night, so anyone's welcome...well, almost anyone... but I was hoping someone could post a handy link to the latest online guides/updates to these crags. I've got Neilo's Red Rocks guide, which is really helpful, but wasn;t sure if it's the latest vers. Any beta gratefully appreciated! Just making the most of my lunch break!

Super Saiyan
31/01/2007
1:54:59 PM
Hey

jump on the ACIA website www.climb.org.au for the latest PDFs on these areas

Went to red rocks on the weekend for the first time- awesome!
JamieF
31/01/2007
2:03:33 PM
On 31/01/2007 Super Saiyan wrote:
>jump on the ACIA website www.climb.org.au for the latest PDFs on these
>areas

Just note that the photos in the Red Rocks guide are taken from Mt Fox, not from where you park. If you park on Red Rock Road opposite the South Pinnacle, then the areas are mostly in a straight line from your car through the south pinnacle, not spread out right to left as it looks. I might be very stupid, but it took me quite a while to realise this and to find the routes!

Jamie

andyR
31/01/2007
2:10:52 PM
Thanx for the tips guys. Ive checked out ACA web and worklis downloading ATM! Yeah id rather not drive all the way out there and spend half the time finding the crag so cheers

nmonteith
31/01/2007
3:31:08 PM
Ruined Castle
http://www.cruxmag.com.au/issue2/ruined_castlev1p6.pdf

Muline
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=697

Red Rocks
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=678

nmonteith
31/01/2007
3:31:31 PM
I might be at Ruined Castle on saturday if anyone wants the tour!
WM
31/01/2007
4:54:19 PM
Enjoy the afternoon sun....

Horsham
Saturday Fine. Min 16 Max 36
Sunday Fine. Min 20 Max 40

nmonteith
31/01/2007
5:46:34 PM
Thats why i'm going to the vic ranges!

Hamilton

Saturday Fine. Min 14 Max 32

andyR
31/01/2007
7:28:36 PM
Yeah sounds like its gunna be hot again but hey, what's new? Least we won't be washed out like acoupla weekends ago.

Thanks for the beta Neil, your guides and efforts are unreal. We may well seeya out there.

andyR

nmonteith
2/02/2007
11:57:53 AM
confirmed: A crew of 4 of us will be at Ruined Castle on saturday (dawn start).

andyr
4/02/2007
9:03:45 PM
Missed you! I arrived at Buandik late Friday night. We climbed at Red Rocks all day Sat, which was really cool, we'll be back soon. Left a dog there...Thanks for your guide Neil, we all turned up with it (not the dog) and it made such a difference to our day. Good stuff! Well, apart from the dog...

nmonteith
5/02/2007
6:03:59 PM
nu route from Ruined Castle on saturday.

Emphysema 15m 25 *
Probably hard 24 but I couldn’t give ‘another’ route at this crag grade 24. The direct line between First
Crusade Pitch 3 and Catapult on the third tier. Start as for Christendom but instead of traversing off left
keep cranking up the direct line. Quite sustained in the upper half. Six FHs and loweroff. FFA Neil
Monteith & Tim Storey 3.2.2007

I've updated the PDF guide on the cruxmag.com.au webaite

andyR
5/02/2007
6:35:35 PM
Cool, I'll grab the update. Hope it was cool at the Castle, we managed to keep out of the heat at RR and only really noticed it on the walk back across the paddocks to the cars. Beers tasted good though! FYI I tried downloading the .pdf guide to the Pav on Sunday but the VCC link to the guide kept on failing. I emailed Argus, just thought you might like to know.

nmonteith
5/02/2007
7:07:04 PM
We were at Ruined Castle till about 3pm (with a 6am start) and it was nice and cool up there. We
managed to blow two tyres on our way home (one exploded off the rim at 120km/h!). The other slowly
deflated....
http://www.neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/2435165

Red Rocks is a great place for hot summers! Im glad you guys enjoyed it. I'll pestor the VCC as well to
see why their link doesn't work.


manacubus
6/02/2007
10:34:48 AM
What are you doing to that car Neil?

nmonteith
6/02/2007
10:36:18 AM
On 6/02/2007 manacubus wrote:
>What are you doing to that car Neil?

killing it like normal.

nmonteith
13/03/2007
1:34:38 PM
Ruined Castle - New Routes

** Blood Letter 17m 24 (Sport)
Big roof excursion. Cuts a rightward leading diagonal
line through the big roofs on the right of the second tier.
Juggy start to slab, swing out through roof and heel
hook rightwards to lip. Crank onto steep juggy headwall
then finish up easy slab. 8 FHs and lower-off.
Neil Monteith 11.3.2007

Alexius 16m 21 (Sport)
Very reachy crux. Starts at the right edge of the second
tier at juggy rib. Up this for 3m then swing left onto
hanging wall and jug up onto face. Easily up slab to
finish as for Blood Letter. Inconsistant.
Neil Monteith 4.3.2007

Flanked 23m 15 (Trad)
Start on rib as for Alexius but continue up this with wide
crack on the left. When it gets a bit tricky step right
slightly and up horizontals to ledge. Step left off ledge
back onto wall and up this for 8m to big ledge and belay.
Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker 4.3.2007

D.Lodge
19/03/2007
10:06:40 PM
Just came back from 3 days at Ruined Castle. Really awesome routes and exposure, agree with the 25 for Emphysema fell off last move twice lol ,but the 3rd pitch too the First Crusade will be harder because my fat arse managed to break off the big undercling in the roof at the start. It is still there with a big white cross on it sitting at the start to the 3rd pitch. It wasnt held on by much ,did the pitch by pulling on the bolt to get to the lip. Small pocket in the roof might work but it is sharp and it will be hard.

nmonteith
20/03/2007
9:39:05 AM
On 19/03/2007 D.Lodge wrote:
>,but the 3rd pitch too the First Crusade will be harder because my fat
>arse managed to break off the big undercling in the roof at the start.
>It is still there with a big white cross on it sitting at the start to
>the 3rd pitch. It wasnt held on by much ,did the pitch by pulling on the
>bolt to get to the lip. Small pocket in the roof might work but it is sharp
>and it will be hard.

ah well, no great loss. It was probably the worst move at the crag. Christendom (22) that comes in from
the right with the same finish is much nicer.
MichaelOR
20/03/2007
1:01:00 PM
Probably won't be too much of a problem. When I led the route last year I used the 2 finger pocket. It didn't cut or cause any problem for my fingers.
I chose to use it as that sequence looked like it would flow really well for me. It did! Not sure 100% if my sequence eliminated that larger undercling ..... I may have still used it briefly?? The way I did it using the 2 finger pocket it was still only 23.
I know Steve didn't use it when he led it ...... but we rarely climb the crux of any route the same way! Great route.
Michael

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There are 43 messages in this topic.

 

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