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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Grampians	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Grampians Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

taming the testpieces by trickery ? 16-Apr-2004 At 3:55:35 PM (removed)

Message

I have plenty, it was all I could do to get up these routes ... any who know me know how weak I really am/was. Note that this is what I found most interesting about climbing ...

World Party Pitch II (27) - Slap the sloper at the crux with your right hand (feels completely wrong but works, thanks Dave Jones)

World Party Pitch III (24) - Have a little lie down in the roof before venturing out. Also, the only good jug over the lip is more left than right ... don't get scared now ...

High Dive (23) - No hander off the dinner plate with a calf lock before crux. Can be used on Lats in the Belfry, but if you're pumped here, you'll never do it anyway.

JetLag (28) - Tricky no hander on the It'll Never Fly jugs with a heel cammed into the wall. Very usefully placed IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CRUX ! I of course couldn't do the second (easier) crux because there were no tricks.

It'll Never Fly (23) / Have A Good Flight (25) - slightly easier no-hander further along the traverse with a high heel hook.

Mind Arthritis (27) - Crux, ignore the sloping crimps with masses of chalk, there is a hidden much smaller but way more positive crimp that gets cleaned below it (which no-one uses). Didn't tick the whole route though.

Henre Bolte (25) - (i) Use the miniature sidepull next to bolt atthe start of the crux (thanks Gordy), and (ii), span out right from crimps in the crux to a very positive edge that only I seemed to use. What a lot of people think is hard is really no more difficult than 24 done this way.

I did Fortress (26) different to everyone as well, but I don't know if it made it any easier than 26. Ask me if you get stuck.

Hueco Dreaming (24/25). Massive high right drop knee makes the last move static. Also makes the route about 23 ...

There's a knee bar no-hander in the end of the roof of Gorilla Tactics (26), although it's over by then anyway.

Spasm in a Chasm (25). There's two no "handers" here, both just before the crux: (i) lobbing your elbow over the knob on the right hand side of the block, and (ii) squatting down with your foot on top of the same blob. If you have any pump left before starting the crux you should be shot.

And don't ever forget Bard (12). Grab the bat-poo on the traverse ....

Actually I found quite a good trick later on which was to get stronger. I spent the first 5 years trying to find easier ways to do routes, then at last got a little stronger and didn't need the tricks anyway ... I recommend this method if at all possible.