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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side North Wall [ Gorge Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Ozymandias gear list 26-Apr-2019 At 6:53:39 PM IdratherbeclimbingM9
Message
On 25-Apr-2019 One Day Hero wrote:
>(snip)
>What I would recommend to a first-timer with limited aid experience is
>lots of rack. They want to have a range of stuff left at the top of every
>pitch because they have no idea what gear will go in. Inexperienced people
>probably shouldn't be running it out, because they may not know the difference
>between a bombproof piece and something which could blow when they top step.
>(snip)

Good advice and equally applies to onsighting trad too, especially when gear is needed for constructing belays (perhaps even more so on multipitch)...

Re top-stepping; that’s probably the hardest thing to do consistently for “limited aid experience” climbers and Ozy’s gentle rightward leanings don’t make it an easy place to learn that art.

Re taking falls on Ozy; most pitches offer clean fall potential on the route, though I acknowledge that weird things can happen even in the cleanest of falls.
;-)

There are 19 replies to this topic.

 

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