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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Northwest	Camel's Hump	(General)	(General)	[ Camels Hump Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

Retrobolted anchors - Witch and Wishful Thinking 10-Jan-2019 At 11:01:42 AM One Day Hero

Message

Ripped this comment from thecrag.com

>So, I was actually up there on Sunday with the intention of chopping them, but held off after >speaking to a local climber that was in favour of letting them remain. I'll leave them nameless >unless they want to volunteer themselves, but their arguments were mainly that someone >had gone to the effort of installing them, that such efforts should be respected, that climbing >was progressing to more sport-based and trad, and that people who didn't like them could >just not use them.

I get this drivel from retrobolters pretty often. Don't fall for it. Just break down each of these points, extend the logic to other crags, look twenty or fifty years down the road, and ask yourself how you want the cliffs to look. This is straight resource competition, they want A, we want B, A and B can't coexist.

All the shit these guys say is done to sow self doubt, with the hope that you'll get mired in ethical quicksand, or back down to avoid confrontation or hurting their feelings. Meanwhile they sure as shit didn't worry about ethics, had no qualms about setting up the confrontation, nor any concern for your feelings.

Fuch 'em! Chop their retrobolts, go and find their sport crags and chop their first ascent bolts too. They'll scream bloody murder, call you all sorts of names, but once bolts come out they do tend to stay out. Have a look at what happened at Kaputar, the 'bungles, the Dargan Arch in the Blue Mountains, or Point Perp. Same bullshit unconsulted retrobolting, same sooking when the bolts are removed, but the bolts haven't gone back in.