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VIC Buffalo (General) (General) The Cathedral [ Cathedral Guide ]

Author

Edge of Pleasure

dan_b

30-Dec-2017
11:36:07 AM

Hi All,
Any one know if the belay at top of first pitch takes gear? Or is it bolted? My reading of the guide is that its natural. Was planning of rapping in to do the top pitch only.
Cheers,
Dan

IdratherbeclimbingM9

30-Dec-2017
12:29:21 PM

On 30-Dec-2017 dan_b wrote:
>Hi All,
>Any one know if the belay at top of first pitch takes gear? Or is it bolted?
>My reading of the guide is that its natural. Was planning of rapping in
>to do the top pitch only.
>Cheers,
>Dan

It’s a big ledge, and unless retroed takes gear.
If top pitching only, then an alternative is to be lowered in and effectively top-roped out...

From a leading perspective (and reading the guide/s for Buffalo), unless a belay is specifically mentioned as being bolted, then assume that it’s not!

dan_b

30-Dec-2017
2:31:06 PM

cheers M9
planning to lead, planning escape route if second not up to the task
dan

gfdonc

1-Jan-2018
8:16:45 AM

Takes trad as far as I recall.
Escape route is to leave the rap rope in place. The crux is fairly low, they should be able to pull on the rope to get past it. Top arete is mostly 17-19.
Or leave a sling on the crucial bolts to yank on.

There are 4 messages in this topic.