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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC All (General) (General) (General) [ Victoria Guide | Images ] 

Author
Superstylin at Point Perpendicular

Clancy
4/08/2004
11:19:22 PM
After seing the photos in a couple of the recent rock mags I am keen to jump on just for the photos...as i doubt i will get it clean no matter how hard i work it ;)

Has anyone been on it or have any other beta? I believe it is the roof on the lighthouse side of t-shirt gully?

Thanks,
clancy

manacubus
5/08/2004
9:29:49 AM
When I got on it it must have been right after it was bolted. The pockets in the roof were incredibly sandy and near impossible to hold. Hopefully it's been nicely cleaned up by now.

MrKyle
19/08/2004
1:39:41 PM
It gets damp if there is sea spray about, which also washes the chalk off. Hence with no chalk to follow, and could stray into some sand. Absolutely bullet hard rock though.

It is the super obvious roof in t-shirt gully. You scramble down to the right side of it (looking to sea). No abseil required. Huge ledge with fixed hanger to belay off. There is also a sinlge bolt to belay on top, but easier to back jump.

Let us know how you go. Don't think anybody has managed an onsight yet.
olbert
12/10/2009
2:06:16 PM
Does anyone know the current status of this climb? There was some issue with holds breaking and being put back a few years ago. Has anyone done it recently?
It looks totally awesome!
Tlockwood
12/10/2009
2:16:16 PM
On 19/08/2004 MrKyle wrote:
>Hence with no chalk to follow, and could stray into some sand.
>

oh no what would we do without chalk to lead us up the climb?!?! hehe ;-P

edit: perhaps we could revise a new 'pure' onsight class for climbs with zero chalk, stir stir
Olbert
21/11/2010
2:52:29 PM
Does anyone know the current status of the route? How good the bolts are? If all the holds are still there? Etc?
Hipster
22/11/2010
9:56:05 AM
I found this route incredibly sandy because the rock is crap. The beauty of the route is only in the photo at the lip. Go and try Zac's route Bung Eye if you're looking for a modern classic. I believe a hold at the lip is broken too.
another dave
23/11/2010
11:44:18 AM
Its still there.
Sandy yes.
I found it sequency so I had no chance on the onsight.
The bolts I thought looked quite shocking or at least the glue on the outside of the hole looked shocking.
The description above is where it is, there is not much else to say just head down and look in that area. It does involve a little scramble with one slip giving you a few seconds of flight before a painful belly flop in the sea.
The missing hold that you (and I) read about I discovered was not really needed (unless it was glued back on, but I didn't notice any glue).
Don't worry just go there you will see it no problems

There are 8 messages in this topic.

 

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