Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Black Diamond: SET of 8 "C4" Cams and 8 matching wire gates. Sizes .3 .4 .5 .75 1 2 3 & 4 and 8 anodised "neutrino" - wire gate karabiners. NB Comes with a FREE carry bag.  $775.00
20% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Nth Avalon headland rockfall 11/08/17

IdratherbeclimbingM9
13-Aug-2017
10:14:34 PM
A block fell off Odin? (see separate thread).
Pffft. Lightweight!

Before...


After...



(A 65 m multipitch route* that B. Goddard and I put up on that nose in 1982 is now a highball boulder problem!)
*Alternate leads 1st pitch BG (free), 2nd pitch myself (aid); ... how does this fit with the debate on Iskra Crag Update thread? Heh, heh, heh.

rodw
14-Aug-2017
7:36:05 AM
Bit of rio and glue and she'll be fine.
kieranl
14-Aug-2017
11:20:58 AM
Geological time is now.
widewetandslippery
14-Aug-2017
12:39:31 PM
Something about Rod routes.;) Steve Bullen once went to a party at Rod Youngs place dressed as a Rod Route.he was covered in dirt, moss and sticks.
climberman
14-Aug-2017
12:47:07 PM
fkn astounding.
I grew up basically on that headland.
I stared at it every surf for my whole teenage years, many times a week.
Am almost tempted to drive up just to see it.
kieranl
14-Aug-2017
1:18:26 PM
On 13/08/2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>(A 65 m multipitch route* that B. Goddard and I put up on that nose in 1982 is now a highball boulder problem!)
>*Alternate leads 1st pitch BG (free), 2nd pitch myself (aid); ... how does this fit with the debate on Iskra Crag Update thread? Heh, heh, heh.

Looking on the bright side M9, your pitch now has the potential to become popular :)
dalai
14-Aug-2017
3:56:59 PM
On 14/08/2017 kieranl wrote:
>Looking on the bright side M9, your pitch now has the potential to become
>popular :)

Since the aid pitch is a potential highball boulder problem, does the first person who boulders it get to rename it? ;-)
widewetandslippery
14-Aug-2017
5:15:58 PM
I, d normally say no but if its upside down its up for debate

IdratherbeclimbingM9
14-Aug-2017
8:56:48 PM
On 14/08/2017 kieranl wrote:
>Looking on the bright side M9, your pitch now has the potential to become popular :)

Popular?
We are talking chossy Sydney sea-cliff nonsense here, so that will limit popularity; ... but I suppose that like aid climbing, it is an acquired taste.
;-)



On 14/08/2017 dalai wrote:
>Since the aid pitch is a potential highball boulder problem, does the first person who boulders it get to rename it? ;-)

They'd need to be intrepid boulderers, as I reckon there'd be cavernous holes/slots around the base of the main 'boulder' that would take a small convoy of semi-trailer loads of mats to protect!



On 14/08/2017 climberman wrote:
(snip)
>I grew up basically on that headland.
>I stared at it every surf for my whole teenage years, many times a week.
>(snip)

Your experience reflects mine.

Please indulge me while I reminisce; due to that cliff falling like that, as it is kind of another nail in my coffin (so to speak), since I moved on from that area...
I was part of the first group of people (Peninsula Speleological Group) to abseil that nose in 1966, and first jumared it soon after I bought the second set of jumars sold by Mountain Designs in Australia in 1972 ?-(date remembered correctly?).

That activity along with similar at the zawn (near the 'castle' off Rayner Rd) Whale Beach (solo), and also the abrupt overhanging 'lip' at the end of south Avalon/ north Bilgola headland (off Serpentine Rd), were semi regular jaunts that we undertook in the name of fun.
The Bilgola headland affair involved anchoring the abseil ropes off a 4WD parked as close to the cliff edge as practical, as there were no barriers* to prevent doing this in those days...
(*I am led to believe they have since been erected, due to people dumping cars off that point, along with an unfortunate incident involving someone driving off the cliff, ... they survived!!!)

I also put up a route (trad), with another mate, up the Avalon side of the true 'end' of the south Avalon headland, but instead of trying to do the roof of that lip (as viewed from the Avalon side), followed a weakness crack on its right hand side instead, ... to one of the mankiest top-outs that I've ever done. This consisted of a runout over very steep, protectionless, and friable rubble/clay, without even the 'benefit' of shrubbery to grasp hold of to help progress! Well I remember the dodgy #11 hex way below on a long sling to stop rope-drag dislodgement, while scraping hand/foot holds in the mank...

(Note: I edited this post on 15/08/17 by adding further detail).

ajfclark
14-Aug-2017
9:07:17 PM
https://vimeo.com/229356687?ref=fb-share

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Aug-2017
7:58:05 PM
Thanks for the very informative drone photography link ajf.

WW&S; I appreciate the humour!

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Landscape Photos Australia

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | High Country Mountain Huts | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints