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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
How hard is headwall on Kachoong?
Mountbeckworth
1-Dec-2016
4:42:06 PM
Can you, seriously please, let me know how hard the headwall is leading to Kachoong?
prb
1-Dec-2016
4:51:46 PM
I guess you mean the wall from the starting ledge to the roof. It depends on how well you like it protected of course. I'm happy to clip the bolt, go up a move, place a cam and run it out to the roof. If this was a climb in itself, it'd be 14/15. The wall above the roof is easier, maybe 10.
Dave_S
1-Dec-2016
5:03:29 PM
There's no way that the lower section of Kachoong is 14/15. Just getting off the starting ledge is around 19-20, and seems to shut a lot of people down. Then once you've placed a cam in the obvious horizontal slot above the bolt, the rest up to the roof is maybe 17, though hard to protect unless you have microcams.
prb
1-Dec-2016
5:45:00 PM
If you find getting off the ledge is grade 20 Dave_S, you must find the rest of the climb hard! I'll go as high as 16 up to the roof, but that's tops.
Mountbeckworth
1-Dec-2016
6:19:55 PM
Thanks, really appreciate your feedback.

Sabu
1-Dec-2016
8:37:45 PM
I always understood the start wall to be around the 18 mark.
gfdonc
1-Dec-2016
9:17:27 PM
Ditto, then about 15-16 up to the roof.

FatBoy
1-Dec-2016
11:21:19 PM
On 1/12/2016 prb wrote:
>If you find getting off the ledge is grade 20 Dave_S, you must find the
>rest of the climb hard! I'll go as high as 16 up to the roof, but that's
>tops.
I kinda agree. 17 max - even accounting for the first move which is more intimidating than it is difficult.

But the official piker's variant goes at (an incredibly soft) 19 so maybe we're both wrong. Geez that makes Quo Vadis about 22 ...

The actual headwall (ie. the top bit) is unfalloffable one you're standing on the lip. Probably grade 8.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2-Dec-2016
9:27:40 AM
On 1/12/2016 FatBoy wrote:
>But the official piker's variant goes at (an incredibly soft) 19 so maybe we're both (snip)

Sandbagged by (kieranl) ?
Heh, heh, heh.




Oh, and to answer the question How hard is headwall on Kachoong?

It's this hard... (in three parts since it's so hard!)

Part 1

Part 2

Part 3


(Thanks for the timeless classics stugang, as they they still make me chuckle!)
One Day Hero
2-Dec-2016
2:02:53 PM
Can we address the misuse of the word headwall? The roof is the chin. The headwall is the bit above the the chin, i.e. the head. The bit below the roof doesn't have a good name, but I reckon neckwall is the word climbers have been looking for.
Dave_S
2-Dec-2016
2:13:10 PM
Furthermore, the starting ledge will henceforth be referred to as the clavicle.

Stugang
2-Dec-2016
5:19:33 PM
I always thought the roof was a nose making the wall above a forehead wall and the wall below a philtrum wall......starting ledge hmmm protruding lower lip?1

Great topic and I think we need a royal commission and in any case it's 17.

pmonks
3-Dec-2016
7:37:55 AM
Furthermore, it's not a roof - it's a ceiling. If it were a roof, you could walk along the top of it.
Wendy
3-Dec-2016
9:16:03 AM
The person is standing on their head. THe bottom wall is therefore the head wall.

You guys are all too tall. The bottom wall is definitely the crux for midgets. So if the roof is 21 for everyone else and you are all claiming the bottom wall to be about 17, can I give the bottom wall 25?

PS I think 22 is about right if you are short.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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