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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Mount Cole National Park Ben Nevis Areas Red Rock [ Ben Nevis Guide | Images ] 

Author
Mt Cole
Rigs
9/03/2014
3:06:26 PM
Hi All,

Does anyone head out to Red rocks at mt cole anymore? Been thinking about heading out that way but the last logged ascent online seems around 2009! Thinking about attempting Yasser first up and wanted to know how much trad gear placements are there or is it mainly relying on bolts? and is the line it takes self explanatory. Any advice, information or general suggestions would be much appreciated.

Thanks.

nmonteith
9/03/2014
4:16:17 PM
My very hazy memory is that place is hugely runout. But mostly easy slab angle - so you can stand around for hours pondering your fate and trying to spy the net far distant bolt.
Cam McKenzie
9/03/2014
6:07:22 PM
I've climbed there a few times (quite some time ago), and I reckon it's a pretty awesome place. Certainly super run out, but I thought that most of the grades were soft accordingly. Is Yasser the 14? If so, I found that as hard and sketchy as more of the 16/17ish routes.

The routes with 3 stars and those with 0 all seemed to be of about the same quality to me, but I guess that's the way with slabs.

Definitely worth a look.

JamesMc
9/03/2014
8:12:36 PM
Great crag, though I've not been there for years. Was thinking the other day I should go back. If you're comfortable on slabs at about grade 16, you can just wander wherever. There is natural gear so take your rack.
Rigs
10/03/2014
10:23:01 AM
Yes yasser is the grade 14. Thanks for the replies, seems pretty consistent that it'll be worth the trip out there. I was hoping for some conformation that the rap chains are still solid and not rusted beyond repair but will have to find out myself.

nmonteith
10/03/2014
11:06:05 AM
My memory is of good stainless anchors.
Cam McKenzie
10/03/2014
11:40:45 AM
I also remember the bolts all being good. Pretty sure they were stainless machine bolts, not sure if they were glue ins or bashies.
dalai
10/03/2014
10:23:49 PM
On 10/03/2014 nmonteith wrote:
>My memory is of good stainless anchors.

These? From the Mt Cole guide page...



Pat
11/03/2014
7:42:38 AM
The VCC North West guide has good directions to the two rap stations on Ben Nevis. This one that Dalai has posted and the new one on Graniticus Slabiticus.
Rigs
14/03/2014
8:19:42 AM
I'm convinced all I need now is weather, day off work and availability of my climbing partner to align. Cheers everyone for thoughts.

Pat
14/03/2014
8:40:28 AM
Let me know if you want some company Joel - I'd be interested in taking a look at these cliffs.

shiltz
14/03/2014
9:10:41 AM
It's a nice spot, bolts are spaced but generally well thought out. A bit of an eye test as you pad up past one bolt and try to spot the next one. Being slabs most of the lines aren't well defined, so keep looking left and right for the bolts or you'll climb right past them. Good time of year to head out there too, I wouldn't want to be on those slabs on a hot day.
Also, I expect a lot of people who climb there don't log their climbs online.

There are 12 messages in this topic.

 

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