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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Suggestions for a Mt Buffalo quickie
peteclimbs
26/02/2014
8:38:40 PM
Hey all - Will be driving back from Albury to Melbourne this Sunday and thought we might stop by Mt Buffalo for a quick climb seeing as how it's (sort of) on the way.

Although I've read a fair bit about it, I've never been there before and wanted to see if people had any suggestions for how to get the most fun in the least amount of time - we'll probably only have two or three hours on this visit. The Horn and Peroxide Blonde look an obvious choice, but what else?

Bolts (to low 20s) or gear (to high teens), it's all good.

Thanks in advance.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/02/2014
8:46:21 PM
Pintle LH variant into Peroxide Blonde at The Horn, then Maharajah at the Hump.
Both classics and can be done in that time, however if you have not been there before, then you might be pushing it for time...
Even so, either line is worth doing for it's own sake, and you won't regret the time it takes.

Superstu
26/02/2014
8:56:48 PM
Banana blase and home james.

Easy access (rap in) and good introductions to the gorge without a lotta pfaff.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/02/2014
9:06:27 PM
On 26/02/2014 Superstu wrote:
>Banana blase and home james.
>
>Easy access (rap in) and good introductions to the gorge without a lotta
>pfaff.
>
>

Yep, that would work, though I am surprised you did not suggest they go the full monty and get the coveted second ascent of The Preying Priest...
;-)

Duang Daunk
26/02/2014
9:37:57 PM
>Suggestions for a Mt Buffalo quickie

If you wait till phillipivan gets through training Miguel75 then he might be up for a Buffalo quickie

Miguel75
26/02/2014
10:26:31 PM
On 26/02/2014 Duang Daunk wrote:
>>Suggestions for a Mt Buffalo quickie
>
>If you wait till phillipivan gets through training Miguel75 then he might
>be up for a Buffalo quickie

Even after I pass the final exam I reckon I'll still lean towards the slow, steady and overloaded side of bigwall climbing. I like being able to take my time and let the cool air ruffle my hairs..

phillipivan
26/02/2014
11:10:32 PM
Do Sultan and The Initiation. They are quite close together, but you will need to be fairly expedient to get them both done in 3 hours. Sultan is 20, but only for a few moves on P1. If you cant do the moves, you could french for 2M with a bigish cam and a bolt and still have a cool time on an awesome route. Perhaps i'm jaded from having climbing Maharajah many times; but I think the climbing is all together more exciting on Sultan.

Otherwise Pintle LHV finishing up Peroxide Blonde is good fun as Rod suggested.
pecheur
27/02/2014
7:54:21 AM
On 26/02/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Pintle LH variant into Peroxide Blonde at The Horn, then Maharajah at the
>Hump.
>Both classics and can be done in that time, however if you have not been
>there before, then you might be pushing it for time...

Since I'm 99% sure I know who Pete and his partner are I'd recommend against Peroxide purely because of the bolting and the size difference. I wouldn't want to fall between the second and third bolt at all, let alone with a partner over 20 kg lighter than I am.

I'd go Pintle LHV OR Maharajah, I also doubt they'll get both done due to having to get to / find the starts.

shiltz
Online Now
27/02/2014
8:11:49 AM
Agree, trying to climb in more than one area will waste time if you don't know Buffalo. Given the limited time I'd go with Stu's recommendation and climb the routes below the hangglider ramp - Banana Blase and Home James. Both very nice routes, shortest drive, shortest walk, easy to find, rap in and climb out.

Another option would be the Hump. Longer drive, longer walk, but you can do a bunch of single pitch, rap in climb out style routes on bolts with minimum fuss and make the most of the time you have.
kieranl
27/02/2014
8:59:12 AM
Pintle LHV and Peroxide Blond then, just down from the carpark is Dreamworld with This is Not Our Land and/or Spaceman Spiff.
peteclimbs
27/02/2014
9:25:19 AM
Thanks all. Very useful and much appreciated.

Pecheur, reveal yourself. You've got the weight difference close enough so presume we might indeed know each other.

shortman
Online Now
27/02/2014
10:18:04 AM
On 27/02/2014 peteclimbs wrote:
>Thanks all. Very useful and much appreciated.
>
>Pecheur, reveal yourself. You've got the weight difference close enough
>so presume we might indeed know each other.

He can't reveal himself....that would mean not being able to play cloak and dagger on Chockstone and take away oodles of strange fun from him. Hey P, :)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/02/2014
11:15:27 AM
On 27/02/2014 shortman wrote:
>He can't reveal himself....that would mean not being able to play cloak
>and dagger on Chockstone and take away oodles of strange fun from him.
>Hey P, :)
>
The trolls manage that anyway don't they? ... Though it is a strange fun indeed.

The PM (private message) function could be used for non-public revealing if needed...
pecheur
27/02/2014
12:42:36 PM
On 27/02/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>The PM (private message) function could be used for non-public revealing
>if needed...
>☺
Or I could just say hello next time I see him.

PS Pete download the update to the Buffalo guide, it's actually got some useful pics / topos.
james
27/02/2014
3:00:34 PM
if you've got 2-3hrs & don't know the place, as someone already said, go to Banana blase & Home James. Shorter drive, easier to find, low commitment routes. Home James is a better climb IMO, Banana Base is shorter/less impressive/less exposed.
You will have done 1 of these 2 in the time it takes you to drive to the Hump/Horn, walk in, find the routes mentioned above.
james
27/02/2014
3:02:45 PM
On 26/02/2014 phillipivan wrote:
>Do Sultan and The Initiation. They are quite close together, but you will
>need to be fairly expedient to get them both done in 3 hours.

subtle, sincere, sandbags are the best
peteclimbs
27/02/2014
8:15:44 PM
Thanks James.

And I too am a fan of the subtle and sincere sandbag. What goes around comes around I guess :)
simey
27/02/2014
9:00:41 PM
I would do Maharajah (17). It is one of the classic routes at Buffalo on a fantastic feature and a line you can see clearly from the road so you know what you are aiming for. You will lose a bit of time on the walk-up and then a possible scrub bash around to the base of the climb, but if you are confident at the grades you say, then you should be able to walk in, climb the route, rap off and walk out comfortably in a few hours. Its neighbour Sultan (20) is a better route, but I assume you will climb Maharajah quicker being a few grades easier.

The idea of doing Banana Blase (not a bad climb, but still a piddly little route on a the fringe of the Gorge) seems ridiculous given the option of climbing a route of Maharajah's calibre.

Or if you want a truly unforgettable Buffalo experience such as 'Where Angels Fear to Tread' (17), then I recommend the condensed version, Hand Vice (17).
Wendy
27/02/2014
9:31:36 PM
Oh fck, I am really agreeing with Simey now? Phew, actually not quite. I think Maharajah is equally as good as Sultan. But doing Majarajah is certainly the best buffalo experience on the list of contenders and you'd be hard pressed to have trouble finding it. Oops, actually someone couldn't find watchtower crack recently, so maybe you could end up on twin cracks instead ... I'd have a good think about how confident to you feel on granite before you jump on it - you will be doing grade 17 crack climbing and a shitty little run out slab to finish. You can do it in 2 pitches easily or 1 pitch with lots of gear, double ropes and confidence.

Jaws is another contender for a classic buffalo experience. You can just run up it after Maharajah if that proved all too quick and easy, it's just opposite the rap down.

There are 19 messages in this topic.

 

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