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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Grampians Sport: Grade 20 and below
mpage
15/08/2006
10:14:52 PM
I am trying to put together a list of sport climbs in the Grampians of grade 20 and below. Please add to this list and if possible provide detail for any additional routes that are not in current production guides. For the purposes of this list I have adopted a working definition for sport climbs as being routes that are adequately protected by any combination of BR / RB / FH / UB etc ending in a rap point or lower off, i.e. not requiring trad gear for your average leader of the grade. Also if you disagree that these are sport routes please feel free to comment as such:

MT STAPYLTON AREA

Tribute Gully
Lines N Noses 10m 18

Cut Lunch Walls
Glue Pot Drive 9m 18

Van Diemans Land
The Dope Man 5m 18

Cloud Cuckoo Land
What the Dormouse Said 12m 15
Grace Slick 12m 20

Amnesty Amphitheatre
Amnesia 15m 17

Sentinel Cave
Half Shark Half Man 14m 17
Dwarf Pumper 8m 20

Windjammer Wall
Rosy the Riveter 12m 16



MT DIFFICULT RANGE

Centurion Walls
Sandpit 18m 20



VICTORIA RANGE

Gondwana Land
Wild Iris 16m 18
Wild Iris RHV 17m 20

Red Rocks
Conflict of Interest 25m 20
Gandalf the Grey 17m 17
Kentucky Fried Clippin 8m 20

The Gallery
The Educator 12m 16

Curiosity Crag
The Extension Lead 12m 18



HALLS GAP AREA

Elephants Hide
Elephant Slide 40m 17

Super Saiyan
15/08/2006
10:26:02 PM
On 15/08/2006 mpage wrote:

>Van Diemans Land
>The Dope Man 5m 18

Boulder problem :) hehe


>The Gallery
>The Educator 12m 16

Where is this?
simey
15/08/2006
10:44:05 PM
What a collection of mega-classics!

There is no need to learn trad when that sort of quality is in such abundance.

That list is going to keep people going for decades.

mpage
16/08/2006
8:33:41 AM
On 15/08/2006 Super Saiyan wrote:
>>The Gallery
>>The Educator 12m 16
>
>Where is this?


From VCC new routes page

THE GALLERY
The Educator 12m 16 (S)
Located on wall opposite the main Gallery cave. Climb obvious right facing wide corner or the face right of the corner passing one UB and two FHs. At the 2nd FH move right to doubly bolt lower off. FFA: Ben Hawthorne and Doug Williams October 2004
kp
16/08/2006
10:52:19 AM
snow flurries (20)
@ asses ears..... may need a few wires though.

kidney stoned(20)
@millenium caves

blunted enthusiasm(20)
@mother buttress (on the walkin to the gallery)

The above routes are probably a little bold just as clip ups. Simeys right though, sportclimbing in the lower grades in Victoria is pretty average.

shiltz
16/08/2006
11:49:19 AM
kp wrote: Simeys right though, sportclimbing in the lower grades in Victoria is pretty average.

That's because we have good quality sandstone that normally has plenty of natural protection. This is one of the great things about climbing in the Grampians. Top roping is the best alternative if you don't have the hardware or the experience to lead on natural gear.

Granite slab climbs are more likely to be bolted in this grade range. I'm not sure that they qualify as "sport routes" though.
kp
16/08/2006
12:15:06 PM
For me ..natural gear is a necessary evil asociated with climbing in victoria.

shiltz
16/08/2006
2:08:53 PM
I don't understand that at all. I happily climb bolted routes in the 20-25 bracket but wouldn't ever consider driving all over the Grampians to seek them out.

I love the freedom of showing up to a crag with a rack of gear and leading (or top-roping) anything that appeals. Clipping bolts is good fun too but somebody has to put in a lot of time and money to place them and in a National Park you can't just bolt every line.

I don't think people should be ashamed to top-rope routes (where it is possible) if they don't have the hardware or the experience to lead them.
mpage
16/08/2006
2:48:51 PM
On 16/08/2006 shiltz wrote:
>I don't think people should be ashamed to top-rope routes (where it is
>possible) if they don't have the hardware or the experience to lead them.

The point of the exercise was not to traipse over the gramps seeking them out or to avoid top roping / using trad, neither of which I have a problem with. But rather to put together a list of climbs and identify those that I have missed.

Thank you for the input, any further suggestions would be welcome.

shiltz
16/08/2006
3:55:00 PM
Fair enough, back to topic then. If you ignore the requirement for a lower off then there are some bolted routes down below the Grey/Green Walls that probably qualify. Check our Kieren's guide to the Staplyton Amphitheatre for details. They are to the left of the first pitch of Navigator.

pharmamatt
16/08/2006
6:10:10 PM
where is cloud cukoo land?
kieranl
16/08/2006
9:18:47 PM
On 16/08/2006 Matt78 wrote:
>where is cloud cukoo land?
Other side of Flat Rock. Start up Flat Rock and keep going pretty much straight instead of veering off left to the Amphitheatre. Very limited but the slabs (only) are worth a quick visit on the way to or from something else.

Rupert
17/08/2006
10:33:10 AM
One Mr G. Poultney produced a weighty tome called "Victoria - Mainly Bolts" some years ago. It has a lot of stuff you might be interested in - if you can find a copy out there somewhere.

nmonteith
17/08/2006
4:16:11 PM
I think thats a pretty definative list.

Other suggested routes at this grade that a little bold and have optional trad for the last moves are...

Dry Spell (20), Koaloasquatsy Wall, Hollow Mtn
Fat Cat (20), Schroaders Wall, Asses Ear

Both these routes are gritty wall climbs on slopers protected by hangerless BRs
kieranl
17/08/2006
7:17:33 PM
On 16/08/2006 shiltz wrote:
> If you ignore the requirement for a lower
>off then there are some bolted routes down below the Grey/Green Walls that
>probably qualify. >
>
Though these really still require a cam placement to make them safe.

Probably if you threw in climbs that were mainly bolted with just one or two straightforward gear placements then you might get a longer list - though not much longer.

shiltz
18/08/2006
3:35:09 PM
You're probably right Kieran. I did them a while ago and I don't remember the gear I used. There are two routes that cross over, one is harder than the other. Do you remember the names?
kieranl
26/08/2006
12:02:56 PM
La Balance and Baby Doll (L-R)

nmonteith
13/09/2006
6:12:21 PM
I've been trying to rack my brain for more of these...

Red Rocks
Dang 10m 20 - (no lower off but all bolts)

Cut Lunch Walls
Twisted Horizons 20m 20 - (optional medium cam between bolt 2 & 3)

sticky
13/09/2006
8:37:11 PM
On 13/09/2006 nmonteith wrote:

>Cut Lunch Walls
>Twisted Horizons 20m 20 - (optional medium cam between bolt 2 & 3)

He he I must be a scaredy cat cos I was very glad for that cam placement.

nmonteith
18/09/2006
4:00:07 PM
On 15/08/2006 mpage wrote:
>Curiosity Crag
>The Extension Lead 12m 18

This is a superb climb although access to this pitch requires either doing a short section of 19 with some
trad or a grade 22 sport route. The climb itself goes up a really exposed arete with problematic route
finding. The bolts are fairly spaced as well. It is not suitable for someone pushing this grade. Here is a
pic of James Pfrunder on this route...


There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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