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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Gorge South Side Angels' Buttress [ Gorge Guide ] 

Author
Angels' Ankles
WeekendWarrior
10/10/2013
3:02:02 PM
Angel's Ankles.

"Where Angels Fear To Tread" has a fearsome reputation for devouring ankles. From the scars I've seen, this reputation is justified.

When we jumped onto the route this May we came suitably armed. Our solution worked really well, so I thought I'd share.

Cut a 15"x2" strip from an old motorcycle inner tube. (Presumably any inner tube will work). Put the middle of the strip under the arch of your foot, and run the rubber up the sides of your ankles. Use a strip of tape to hold in place, and drop your foot into your climbing shoe.

Unlike taping ankles, this doesn't roll up after the second pitch, and gives a little bit of sticky grip.

Wishing everyone safe climbing this summer!

phillipivan
10/10/2013
3:27:57 PM
Or just get some high tops and call it good?
WeekendWarrior
10/10/2013
6:29:26 PM
>>Or just get some high tops and call it good?
High tops would be excellent. We couldn't get our hands on high tops- this was our reasonable attempt at a substitute. Just wanted to share.


Wendy
10/10/2013
8:12:25 PM
I did angels in a pair of slippers. I don't understand what the problem is ... Jaws on the other hand, I was completely eaten by.

shiltz
10/10/2013
8:28:41 PM
I had a normal pair of shoes as well and no significant scars. I think because it is less than vertical I never had to put my feet that far into the crack, just heel toeing.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
Online Now
10/10/2013
9:01:32 PM
On 10/10/2013 WeekendWarrior wrote:
>Angel's Ankles.
>
>"Where Angels Fear To Tread" has a fearsome reputation for devouring ankles.
> From the scars I've seen, this reputation is justified.
>
>When we jumped onto the route this May we came suitably armed. Our solution
>worked really well, so I thought I'd share.
>
>Cut a 15"x2" strip from an old motorcycle inner tube. (Presumably any
>inner tube will work). Put the middle of the strip under the arch of your
>foot, and run the rubber up the sides of your ankles. Use a strip of tape
>to hold in place, and drop your foot into your climbing shoe.
>
>Unlike taping ankles, this doesn't roll up after the second pitch, and
>gives a little bit of sticky grip.
>
>Wishing everyone safe climbing this summer!

It is great to see innovation is still happening in the aussie climbing world, and I think your idea has great merit for routes like this, especially considering the current crop of climbing shoe (fad), that has been around for a little while now.

Thanks for posting it.

shiltz
10/10/2013
9:17:47 PM
It definitely looks like a better approach than taping. Less waste, less pain... nice one!

ajfclark
Online Now
11/10/2013
7:50:46 AM
On 10/10/2013 shiltz wrote:
>I had a normal pair of shoes as well and no significant scars. I think because it is less than vertical I never had to put my feet that far into the crack, just heel toeing.

I don't remember heel toeing much at all. I wonder if it's a foot size thing or just that I had high tops and it wasn't a problem. I'm about an 11us/45eu. What size shoe do you wear?

shiltz
11/10/2013
9:34:11 AM
euro 40 climbing shoe. Ankles were well clear of the crack most of the time apart from that messy first pitch and the chimney bits up high.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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