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Federation Peak, Tassie

11:30:13 AM
Hi All!

Going to climb Federation Peak early next year on the route 'Blade Ridge'. I'd like to speak to anyone who has climbed this route/area, or knows of someone who has, just to get some extra info and advice. Info on the climb only, the hike in we have sorted.

Much appreciated!

Cam McKenzie
4:20:19 PM
I've climbed the North West face of Fed Peak. We originally planned to do the linkup of blade ridge into the NW face, but the weather was not on our side. Getting to the base of blade ridge is meant to be pretty epic, and even finding the correct ridge to climb from below is meant to be tricky. I'd post on as there are a few guys on there who have done it.

The NW face itself is good climbing. Some pretty amazing exposure near the roof (where the direct and the original routes diverge). When we did it, the roof pitch of the direct was very wet and mossy. Gear and rock are good. Definitely an adventure worth doing.
2:00:06 PM

I haven't climbrd blade ridge, but we didi North-East Corner earlier this year. Something to bear in mind, blade ridge and the North West face are not visible from the berchevaise plateau side.

For the hike , if you are coming from Farmhouse creek, careful on the first day almost everyone get a bit lost. It took us 3 days to get to the berchevaise plateau, which is a bit more realistic than the time suggested on the thesarvo.

Fed peak is an awesome place.
8:24:42 PM
will be great fun. We did it in 1977 . Forest Chute to the top. Gear should be a lot better now.

PM me if you want to chat about it.

2:18:34 PM
Weather seems to be the deciding factor to any climbing there, we've allowed 9 days for the whole trip so hopefully this will be enough!
How long did it take you to climb the NW Face, Cam?
Cam McKenzie
2:45:36 PM
9 days is a good window, we had 5 days, and only one day when it wasn't forecast to rain most of the day.

We took about a day and a half to walk in I think. The walking is pretty brutal as parks don't maintain the path anymore. Moss ridge in particular with a big pack on is hell. We got into Bechervaise at about 1pm, and then did one of the super easy climbing routes (one pitch of grade 8 or so), and scrambled to the summit. This allows you to sort out the abseil descent, which saves a several hours (I believe) walk when descending, as you don't need to walk around the base of the mountain to get back to camp.

Our plans for blade ridge died when we woke up at 4am to absolute pissing rain. In the end it cleared up by about 9am, and we got onto the base of the NW face at about 1pm. It's pretty horrible climbing getting up to the ridge. Scary loose mud with shallow Tee trees for pro. Awesome!

The NW face itself took way longer than it should, but I was leading every pitch unfortunately, and then had a minor epic at the crux, when it turned out not to be the 'hand crack through roof to jugs' as described in the guide, but a steep mossy offwidth, to a wet slopy ledge. I fell off. I looked behind me and saw a huge wall of rain heading towards me. I aided through the crux, and then we got rained on a lot for the next few pitches. I did find the head of an old piton hammer though, so it was all good. I think it took us about 8 hours from the base of the NW face to the summit. You could do it much more quickly if you were competent! The rock is good and the gear is also good if somewhat spaced.

Then it snowed all night and the entire NE face turned into an enormous waterfall.

Then we went home. It was awesome.

The end.
1:29:30 PM
Nice TR.

You guys are pretty fit to do the walking in a day and half ! I suppose it helps not to get lost on the way :)
Cam McKenzie
3:15:35 PM
I was walking in with someone much younger and fitter than me! If I was setting the pace, it may well have taken 3 days.

We probably walked for about 10 hours on the first day without really stopping (we stopped a few hours before the campsite at the bottom of moss ridge), and then about 7 the next day.

1:07:13 PM
Sounds like an incredible trip Cam! What time of year did you go?
I've been talking to jrc and it seems we'll have too much gear haha This has all been a great help. As we suspected, the more we find out, the more it's obvious that we won't be prepared for everything! Was there anything you took that was useless?

2:18:57 PM
For SW Tassie I would recommend travel scrabble and cards, for when you're tentbound and cursing this forsaken devils sh!tbowl of an island while you nurse your vitamin D deficiency.

When the sun does come out it will be stupendously amazing.
Cam McKenzie
2:23:12 PM
I think we went in December maybe? Can't really remember. March is probably best for weather, but really you're rolling the dice any time of year.

We took a relatively light rack (for me, I normally climb with double cams from 0.5-3 in Tassie). 1 1/2 sets of wires (doubled in the middle sizes), One set of cams from about 0.3 camelot to 4 camelot (useful on the crux), 14 draws maybe? Double ropes.

Don't think we took anything useless other than too much food, but we bailed a day early due to the weather, so maybe that extra food would have come in handy.

Anyway, have fun, you're sure to have an adventure. I've never climbed anywhere more committing. The feeling that if you f---ed up that you'd be in real trouble is ever present.

There are 11 messages in this topic.


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