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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Candlestick route info
redz
27/09/2013
8:06:08 PM
Hi all,
I'll be heading to tassie over Xmas and plan on doing the candlestick. Can't seem to find good info regarding getting on and off the pinnacle. Is a tyrolean an option or is it needed. If there's a tyrolean that I can do what's the details? Rope lengths, anchors etc
Cheers
Darrren
27/09/2013
8:56:04 PM
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasman+Peninsula

Its in the Fortescue section. You need a 70m to rap then you tag that line and tyroleen back to the mainland from the big ledge one pitch from the top. Have fun.
dave1962
27/09/2013
10:45:32 PM
cool video of the candlestick http://www.abc.net.au/news/2012-06-01/candlestick-conquerors/4048202
simey
28/09/2013
11:34:26 AM
Getting on and getting off the Candlestick is quite a bit more involved than the Totem Pole. I wrote down some notes but I can't find them. Hopefully someone else can help you out. The Tyrolean to get off the Candlestick (having already done one abseil from the summit to a good ledge with fixed anchors) is situated much higher on the Candlestick side than the mainland side, so you need to consider that. The overall length of the Tyrolean is a bit more than 30m as I recall.

Cam McKenzie
28/09/2013
11:41:17 AM
There are a couple of routes up there. The original grade 16 one (which I haven't done) which goes up a bunch of widish cracks, and a grade 18ish one which follows a couple of pitches of corners, and then a ridge to to the 16 for the final pitch to the summit.

You can tyrolean to the start of the 18 so that only one person in the party has to do the swim. Our approach was:
-Fix a 60m rope from the mainland and rap to the base of the tote.
-Send someone over to the Candlestick trailing a rope
-Rig a tyrloean (there are bolts on the land side and on the candlestick side) and get zip over to the candlestick
-Climb two grade 18ish pitches trailing the fixed rap line that's attached to the land side anchors.
-Climb a ridge pitch (needed some shenanigans here to get the tyrolean rope around a few aretes)
-Fix the tyrolean rope to the anchor here and leave it behind.
-Climb another pitch to the summit
-Get glory shot on summit
-Rap back down to previous anchor
-Rig the tyrolean
-Zip back to the mainland for victory beers.
Mangani
29/09/2013
1:10:31 AM
Here' s a little bit from when I climbed the candlestick about 1.5years ago;
After a wicked day on the tote with my climbing partner, we thought it would be great to take the girlfriends up the candlestick the following day. The bottom tyrolean is easy and only 10m or so but you need someone to swim out there first. We climbed as two parties of two following the grade 18 corners as this is the anchor you can see from the bottom of the chasm rap. We started late in the day expecting only 4 easy pitches of grade 16. Here's how it went.
First pitch knocked off rock and gashed friends arm doh...
Second pitch follow corner system and avoid all loose blocks yay
Third pitch climbed funky offwidth on the left instead of hand crack doh
Tyrolean rope got caught on just about everything doh
team below if taking a long time better help them instead of summiting
Looks like its getting kinda dark...
Rig tyrolean except the anchor on the pinnacle if about 15m higher than the mainland anchor doh its about 40m long
rapped down looking for another anchor, isn't one anywhere but did find the original route yay it starts behind the tote when you are standing on the chasm ledge
first person gets over the tyrolean yay its dark now doh
girlfriend gets jumar stuck and get exhausted in the middle of the chasm of doom doh (man I wish I taught her how to use it)
We all get onto the mainland yay its only 1am
Only a 2 hr walk back to camp, wish I carried more food doh
Wake up early to stich up friends arm damn thing wont stop bleeding
redz
30/09/2013
7:32:22 PM
Thanks for the feedback. Pretty sweet vid there. The swim looks like the scariest part ...

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