On 14/09/2013 Superstu wrote:
Ss offers great advice in his post above.
Just a point of elaboration on this bit;
>But cams do work well in the horizontal breaks where the hexes are fiddly.
This is true, and many of the climbs at Barrenjoey have horizontal breaks as their only protection opportunities (apart from bolts), so bear this in mind if you go there.
Having said that, the lower grade climbs tend to follow the few vertical (crack style), natural lines there...
I never got many good hex placements at Bjoey, I think a lot of the cracks flare a bit and cams generally have heaps more good placements. Although, I'm probably just not good at placing hexes.
1 Set of nuts. Cam sizes from about Camalot #0.5 to #3 although you will occasionally really want the small cams #0.3 and #0.4. Plus a few slings.
My ideal Sydney sandstone rack would be the nuts, my full set of totem cams, then a friend's #1 and #2 camalot, then bigger camalots as the route requires. I have WC Friends but I wouldn't recommend them.
Then go do Crack Of Dawn and Pledge A Legend which are probably the best beginners trad leads. Then get on Cosmic Ecology, Facet, and Judgement Day. And quickly, because the ticks will be out in force soon!