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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

The Phoenix (20) Resurrected! 15-Jun-2013 At 6:46:23 PM PThomson

Message

G'day all,

Question for anyone familiar with The Phoenix....

After having bolted a moderately bold mixed line that goes the full length of the slab next to The Phoenix, I was investigating bolting an access pitch up the the top ~20m overhanging headwall above The Phoenix as an alternative to walking out of the crag (and an alternative entrance). I found the top of the headwall (and the original dynabolts placed by Julian A when he rapped in to install the anchor at the top of The Phoenix), and I installed a proper set of rap anchors. As I was rapping down to investigate the line (and eliminate any choss), I found that the entire line already has holes drilled in -roughly- the right locations for bolts to be installed, however the drilled holes appear quite old and are full of spider webs. Furthermore, there are 2 more Dynabolts with bolt plates still on them (conventient for keeping the rope against the wall when bolting).

So, before I go re-drilling (or using the existing holes) I wanted to determine if anyone knows who drilled the holes, and if they're planning on finishing establishing the route. If not, -especially since I went to the effort of glueing in a new set of rap anchors above the pitch- I'd like to finish bolting it (and possibly a variant up the mega-exposed arete next to it). I just don't want to go stealing someone elses work, even if they've "forgotten" about it without their permission.

I HAVE also sent a message to Julian A, but I wanted to open up the question in case it wasn't him who bolted it.

On an unrelated note, prospective Phoenix climbers might be interested to know that the access track into The Phoenix that I developed last year has "worn in" reasonably well so far, and I've installed a few fixed rope points (ready to install the ropes themselves on my next trip out there) to protect the sketchy traverse in. I still rate The Phoenix as worth this effort, as it remains one of the best crack lines I've done in the Blueys (I've done about 8 laps now, the majority on rope solo).

Be safe.

-Paul Thomson