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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Pyramid Hill Areas Mt Hope (General) [ Mt Hope Guide ] 

Author
Descent gully grade.

Groveller
26/05/2013
8:22:02 AM
Regarding the descent gully at the side outcrop at Suicide rock, Mt Hope. Would anyone know the grade of this gully. A beginner I climb with would like to know as it was her first real lead climb. It would have to be more than a 3?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/05/2013
11:32:00 AM
On 26/05/2013 Groveller wrote:
>Regarding the descent gully at the side outcrop at Suicide rock, Mt Hope.
>Would anyone know the grade of this gully. A beginner I climb with would
>like to know as it was her first real lead climb. It would have to be more
>than a 3?

I have not done it so can't give you a specific grade opinion, however being a descent gully there would be a good chance that it is ungraded within climbing guides.

In this case you are free to grade it what you think fair, using the following Ewbank criteria;

The Ewbank system is not intended to simply grade the hardest individual move on a climb though the grading system is often described this way. Ewbank explained "Grading takes the following into consideration: Technical difficulty, exposure, length, quality of rock, protection and other smaller factors. As these are more or less all related to each other, I have rejected the idea of 3 or 4 grades, i.e. one for exposure, one for technical difficulty, one for protection etc. Instead the climb is given its one general grading, and if any of the other factors is outstanding, this is stated verbally in the short introduction to that climb"


Starting with Gr 1 being a walk up, I have found most beginners 'require' the security of a rope at anywhere from Gr 4 to Gr 6, though their natural climbing ability would cope easily to Gr 8 if it wasn't for the exposure factor ...

If the descent gully isn't documented as a climb, and your friend has led it, then she also gets to name it!

ambyeok
27/05/2013
12:36:23 PM
Some suggested names:

the ascent gully
golly gully
look mum no hands

Miguel75
27/05/2013
1:22:28 PM
On 27/05/2013 ambyeok wrote:
>Some suggested names:
>
>the ascent gully
>golly gully
>look mum no hands

The bowels of the beast...

bw
27/05/2013
3:25:51 PM
On 27/05/2013 ambyeok wrote:
>Some suggested names:
>
>the ascent gully
>golly gully
>look mum no hands

Decent gully :)
hero
29/05/2013
7:01:45 AM
>If the descent gully isn't documented as a climb, and your friend has led it, then she also gets to name it!

You'd think that wouldn't you. But when I claimed the easiest route on Dec crag, cos no one else had and called it "He wouldn't know a new route if it was up him" the godlike guidebook editor Louise changed it to Sunny Gully. And upgraded it.
prb
29/05/2013
10:23:01 AM
I thought Louise graded Sunny Gully 1 so was it a 0.5 before that? It's now 3 so it could be the only climb on the planet whose grade has trebled in the last 15 years!
hero
30/05/2013
12:10:00 AM
Yes. Could be wrong. Maybe Simey was the upgrader.

I once had a climb go up 500% after the second ascent failed on it!

The quote was "you can't grade climbs to suit your own ego."

Groveller
30/05/2013
1:32:15 PM
If Sunny gully is a 3 then the aforementioned descent gully would be a 4 or 5. Thanks.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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