17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
Just curious about the crux roof sequence on the first pitch of Seventh Banana.
I cross over to get the pocket above the bolt with my left hand, then throw for a very positive handle out right with my right hand, making it easy to leaver up onto the headwall. This ignores the well chalked flake above the bolt almost completely.
My wife's too short to get the pocket above the bolt with her left, and doesn't have the reach to throw for the handle on the right.
Any tips on alternatives? She's been grabbing the pocket above the bolt with her right hand and trying to get her feet up high enough to get her left hand finger tips into the bottom of the obvious chalked up flake, but its very strenous....
Taipan is the least short person friendly climbing in the Gramps. Just as I was feeling like a real grumblebum about reach problems, I heard that Lyn Hill and Sylvia Fitapatrick also complained about it constantly. So i felt much better about it. There's a lot of stuff on that wall that midgets just aren't able to do. Aid through the stupidly reachy stuff and enjoy what you can climb or just climb somewhere that isn't inherently reachy.
It is strenuous when short- think I had enough trouble getting draw on bolt, and end up wrong handed in pocket, can only just throw into it after doing some weird backstepping shenanigans, then kind of campused straight up to flake after matching in pocket with one hand on top of other. Its possible but harder...