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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Seventh Banana short person beta
bones
13/05/2013
10:28:27 AM
Just curious about the crux roof sequence on the first pitch of Seventh Banana.

I cross over to get the pocket above the bolt with my left hand, then throw for a very positive handle out right with my right hand, making it easy to leaver up onto the headwall. This ignores the well chalked flake above the bolt almost completely.

My wife's too short to get the pocket above the bolt with her left, and doesn't have the reach to throw for the handle on the right.
Any tips on alternatives? She's been grabbing the pocket above the bolt with her right hand and trying to get her feet up high enough to get her left hand finger tips into the bottom of the obvious chalked up flake, but its very strenous....
Wendy
13/05/2013
6:40:57 PM
Climb somewhere else?

Taipan is the least short person friendly climbing in the Gramps. Just as I was feeling like a real grumblebum about reach problems, I heard that Lyn Hill and Sylvia Fitapatrick also complained about it constantly. So i felt much better about it. There's a lot of stuff on that wall that midgets just aren't able to do. Aid through the stupidly reachy stuff and enjoy what you can climb or just climb somewhere that isn't inherently reachy.

Miguel75
14/05/2013
4:12:19 PM
Could you have someone throw in an intermediate bolt?

heh heh heh

vwills
14/05/2013
5:28:26 PM
It is strenuous when short- think I had enough trouble getting draw on bolt, and end up wrong handed in pocket, can only just throw into it after doing some weird backstepping shenanigans, then kind of campused straight up to flake after matching in pocket with one hand on top of other. Its possible but harder...

There are 4 messages in this topic.

 

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