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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Topic Date User
Seventh Banana short person beta 13-May-2013 At 10:28:27 AM bones
Message
Just curious about the crux roof sequence on the first pitch of Seventh Banana.

I cross over to get the pocket above the bolt with my left hand, then throw for a very positive handle out right with my right hand, making it easy to leaver up onto the headwall. This ignores the well chalked flake above the bolt almost completely.

My wife's too short to get the pocket above the bolt with her left, and doesn't have the reach to throw for the handle on the right.
Any tips on alternatives? She's been grabbing the pocket above the bolt with her right hand and trying to get her feet up high enough to get her left hand finger tips into the bottom of the obvious chalked up flake, but its very strenous....

There are 3 replies to this topic.

 

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