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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All ACT (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Booroomba
Nick Clow
20/12/2012
8:32:46 AM
I have never climbed at Boroomba. Is this a gaping hole in my climbing resume that needs filling?

I am contemplating taking an opportunity to climb there for several days just after Easter. What routes (up to 23ish) would you recommend for a 2/3 day trip for someone who has never been there before?

Thanks
simey
20/12/2012
10:02:48 AM
On 20/12/2012 Nick Clow wrote:
>I have never climbed at Boroomba. Is this a gaping hole in my climbing
>resume that needs filling?

No.

>I am contemplating taking an opportunity to climb there for several days
>just after Easter. What routes (up to 23ish) would you recommend for a
>2/3 day trip for someone who has never been there before?

Just do Integral Crack (20ish) and then you can say you have ticked Booroomba and go visit some better places.


Capt_mulch
20/12/2012
10:04:29 AM
Do some easy exposed stuff to start with. I highly recommend Counterbalance with Ivory Coast finish as a nice starter (16?). There's so much stuff there, it's more about being about to find the climb than to climb it. Integral Crack is a classic that is easy to find. Check the CCA website too: http://www.canberraclimbing.org.au/ - if you don't have anyone to guide you, hang out at the Booroomba carpark and see if you can hook up with someone.
Estey
20/12/2012
11:09:29 AM
Any starred climb in the ACT granite guide will be worthwhile. The editors were relatively thrifty handing them out. ODH will no doubt fine tune a list for a 3 day trip in your grade range.

Re: linking Counterbalance into Ivory Coast. I haven't done it but it would require a yucky scrubby traverse. Climbers in the lower grades would normally access IC via Denethor (14). Echidna-IC (19) would be a more enjoyable link up for you.

Finally try and go with somebody who knows their way around. If not you will waste most of your weekend finding the starts of your routes. There are also some handy rap statons that make it heaps easier to up your mileage, but you need to know where they are.
daave
20/12/2012
11:25:42 AM
can +1 for integral crack. Pretty bloody amazing line!
uwhp510
20/12/2012
11:26:03 AM
On 20/12/2012 simey wrote:
>On 20/12/2012 Nick Clow wrote:
>>I have never climbed at Boroomba. Is this a gaping hole in my climbing
>>resume that needs filling?
>
>No.

Bullsh1t, Booroomba is rad. Don't be such a negative nancy. There's easily two pretty bloody good days worth of climbing.

Day 1, South Buttress;

Integral Crack - 48m 20
No Beans for Bonzo - 48m 22
African Walking Tree - 40m 21
Alligator Wine - 35m 22
Sipple (plus whatever simple access pitch to Sipple takes your fancy) - 20m 18

Day 2, North Buttress

Closer In (first two pitches - 50m 19, 50m 20) then into...
Dry Route 20m 17 (this one pitch alone, which unbelievably is given no stars despite being the best pitch at grade 17 at the whole crag, would make the trip worthwhile in my opinion... its hard to explain)
Then walk back down and do all three pitches of Nothing Left 50m 23, 50m 22, 25m 21

Capt_mulch
20/12/2012
11:58:56 AM
When I was in Canberra about 3 months ago the ACT Granite Guide was still available at Paddy Palin's in Lonsdale Street. Definitely worth having.

kuu
20/12/2012
12:24:08 PM
Nick, given your Trip Report elsewhere on this site

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=2&MessageID=8861&Replies=3#NewPost

when you visit Booroomba perhaps you should climb Possum as penance ;-)
widewetandslippery
20/12/2012
12:27:51 PM
Boroomba stone is way better than buffalo.

The guide is good once you have inside knowledge. First time round it can be confusing to th nth finding starts. Once you have your bearings the guide is ok.
mikllaw
20/12/2012
1:20:52 PM
awesome old fashioned area. It's the only good granite on the mainland.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
20/12/2012
3:17:36 PM
On 20/12/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Boroomba stone is way better than buffalo.
>
Hmm.
For some parts of Buffalo I'd agree with that, but there are other parts where the Buffalo granite is good quality and some would say more climbable than Booroomba due having a larger crystal size.



Re: the original question;
>Is this a gaping hole in my climbing resume that needs filling?

Yes, especially if you like a bit of adventure. ~> Go do it. You won't regret it.

It has quite a variety of styles involved, from slab to overhang, so you will be able to find suitable climbs for your taste in most grades.

wallwombat
21/12/2012
7:45:09 AM
Boroomba is tops.

Don't listen to Simey - he is an "Arapiles coddled baby".

widewetandslippery
21/12/2012
7:55:14 AM
On 20/12/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 20/12/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>Boroomba stone is way better than buffalo.
>>
>Hmm.
>For some parts of Buffalo I'd agree with that, but there are other parts
>where the Buffalo granite is good quality and some would say more climbable
>than Booroomba due having a larger crystal size.

So you like your women with big teeth and rough heheheheh

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/12/2012
8:54:27 AM
On 21/12/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>On 20/12/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>On 20/12/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>>>Boroomba stone is way better than buffalo.
>>>
>>Hmm.
>>For some parts of Buffalo I'd agree with that, but there are other parts
>>where the Buffalo granite is good quality and some would say more climbable
>>than Booroomba due having a larger crystal size.
>
>So you like your women with big teeth and rough heheheheh

Let me get back to you on that, as I need to do some calcs onyalogic first...



Nick Clow
21/12/2012
8:56:02 AM
Thanks for the spectrum of comments, and particularly uwhp510 for the suggested routes. I think I've got to go and will start reading the guide.
uwhp510
21/12/2012
11:14:25 AM
I'd just like to add that everything on my list is safe, even by non-Booroomba standards, with nary a runout amongst them.

kuu
21/12/2012
11:59:07 AM
Nick, Integral Crack is top of the list uwhp510 provided (earlier in this thread).

I'm sure when you see it you will be drawn.
simey
21/12/2012
5:30:05 PM
On 21/12/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>Boroomba is tops.
>
>Don't listen to Simey - he is an "Arapiles coddled baby".

Actually Boroomba is pretty good for a granite cliff. I was just taking the piss. And I do agree with the comments about the granite being some of the finest in the land (a lot of it is relatively fine-grained and a lot more appealing than Buffalo).

As for uwhp510's rave about Dry Route (17). Well I think he is over-hyping it a bit. It's a bit broken, although it does have some interesting and unlikely moves. Probably grade 19 and worth one star (or two if you are on drugs).

Wendy
21/12/2012
6:19:44 PM
maybe three if you're in a good position to watch Simey on it. I hear Gareth has some good footage that for some reason Vegemite edited out.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
21/12/2012
8:52:40 PM
On 21/12/2012 simey wrote:
>On 21/12/2012 wallwombat wrote:
>>Boroomba is tops.
>>
>>Don't listen to Simey - he is an "Arapiles coddled baby".
>
>Actually Boroomba is pretty good for a granite cliff. I was just taking
>the piss. And I do agree with the comments about the granite being some
>of the finest in the land (a lot of it is relatively fine-grained and a
>lot more appealing than Buffalo).
>
>As for uwhp510's rave about Dry Route (17). Well I think he is over-hyping
>it a bit. It's a bit broken, although it does have some interesting and
>unlikely moves. Probably grade 19 and worth one star (or two if you are
>on drugs).
>
Then Wendy replied;
>maybe three if you're in a good position to watch Simey on it. I hear
>Gareth has some good footage that for some reason Vegemite edited out.
>

Heh, heh, heh. (I like it).
~> Has it been posted to Utube yet?

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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