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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Southwest	You Yangs	Gravel Pit Tor	(General)	[ You Yangs Guide \| Images ]

Topic Date User

The first bolt on Question of Ethics (You Yangs) 7-Nov-2012 At 4:18:42 PM JDB

Message

>Having done Boogie till you Puke in its original state back in the 80s
>my feelings are that climb is not quite as good with all the extra bolts.
>I'm not against retro-bolting, but Boogie till you Puke was perfectly safe
>as there was plenty of good natural gear which was pretty straightforward
>to place and it made the upper section a lot more interesting. Bloodline
>(22) on the other hand was a different matter.

I respect your opinion, Simey but.....
This is where the lines (no pun intended) get blurred.

As you've mentioned Bloodline in its original state was dangerous. It requires one to basicaly soloing at 22/23 to two thirds height and the retro bolting has made it safe.

At the risk of opening a can of worms (should I say a second can) it appears to me that the philosophies of far more talented climbers than I ( I will not name them as they are far too numerous) appear lack empathy and understanding when bumblies like me raise an issue regarding safety; when the climb(s) in question (still no pun intended) they find relatively straight forward, and well within their abilities rather than their limits.

Tell me I'm wrong....................