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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Mid grades 13-17 - 4 day trip from canberra.
Justcameron
25/09/2012
11:04:43 AM
Catching up with a friend in Canberra in a couple of weeks time. Have 4 days of climbing to fill. Where should we go? It seems that the places to go are Nowra and Point perp? Maybe Booroomba Rocks? Other places we should visit?

I like to lead trad 13-16. Haven't done much sport but guess I would enjoy 15-18.

Most of my climbing has been at Araps and Morialta in Adelaide.

Keen to visit a couple of areas and get as much climbing in as possible.

Should I take my double ropes for adventure routes/long abseils or single 60m to save weight on the flight to Canberra?

Tips and advice?
jono_1
25/09/2012
11:15:54 AM
Go to Booromba if you don't feel like driving for a few hours to the coast. It is only 45m drive. You only need a single rope at Booromba, Nowra and Point (though double ropes are handy on some routes at Point).

If you don't have guidebooks I'm happy to lend you mine as I'm sure a few others from Canberra would do so also.

rodw
25/09/2012
11:56:59 AM
Wingello is easy day trip from canberra...mostly sport though

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10&action=crag&crag_id=314

It does get the sun so make sure its not a really hot day.
widewetandslippery
25/09/2012
12:36:18 PM
canberra is great at this grade. If you base yourself at honey suckle tracking station booroomba and orarol ridge are really close. Lots of star routes at your grade. If you really want to look around Mt Gibralter and Mt Corree are both good. Don't mis dan murphys tuggranong, its unreal.

davidn
25/09/2012
12:43:07 PM
Just note that going to coree without a 4WD is pretty difficult nowadays, what with the road at the bottom getting constantly ripped up (by 4WDers, ironically).

Snake Rock would be another option. It's just been refreshed and a bunch of new routes done, apparently now around 40 routes between gr 3 and 27. Sport, with a few trad lines.

Booroomba does seem like your best bet though.
technogeekery
25/09/2012
1:01:35 PM
I'll second the comments about Booroomba. Those grades are in my sweet spot too, and Booroomba has lots of great climbing in that range. Close to Canberra so you won't waste hours on the road, and you could spend 2-3 days climbing around your grade level. Single rope is fine. Good camping too at Honeysuckle Creek if you feel like being amongst it all. Can be difficult to find climbs / stay on-route, this http://canberraclimbing.org.au/routes--guides/climbing-guides/booroomba.aspx will help but it would be great to hook up with a local for day 1 to find your way around.

Point Perp is awesome too - but not really convenient from Canberra, you'll probably want to camp there (Honeymoon Bay is great, open Fri-Sun only)

Others can tell you more about Nowra but I'm not sure how much easy trad is there.
Justcameron
25/09/2012
1:15:26 PM
We will have a 2wd. Happy to drive a bit to get on some quality rock. Probably will just being doing routes with 2 or 3 stars.

Looking at some massive routes in the blue mountains which look exciting.
One Day Hero
25/09/2012
5:34:38 PM
If neither you nor your partner has been to Booroomba before, the first day will probably involve more exploring than climbing. Possum and Hermes are both good routes which are relatively easy to find.

Margarine Ridge in the Blueys is pretty cool as far as long easy things go, might be worth looking at previous chocky discussion of that one as people seem to have epics for some reason. (3.5hrs drive from Canberra)

Point Perp has lots of "adventurous" routes in your grade range, and also quite a few on solid rock. (2.5hrs drive if you go the Nerriga way and speed)

Ropes are a bit tricky, I'd prefer doubles for what you're keen on but a single would suffice. Pt. Perp needs a 40m rap rope in addition to the climbing rope/ropes.

I'm astonished at the continuing devaluation of "mid grades".........13 is mid grade now?


ajfclark
25/09/2012
5:55:57 PM
Might be shortened from midteen. Chocky's length on the title of a thread is a bit short IMO.
Justcameron
16/10/2012
4:06:05 PM
Well we ended up spending 1 day around canberra and visiting Booroomba Rocks - did possum as recommended - great route. Also dropped past Kambah rocks.

The next 3 days we went to the Blue mountains. Based ourselves in Blackheath. Very different climbing to what we've both done before (coming from Adelaide most of our climbing has been at Morialta gorge and at Arapiles.)

Day 1 - drive to blackheath, went to Mt Boyce. Got up The Eyrie, Another Man's Juliet and then Toby led Abseil Arete.
Day 2 - Mt Piddington. Great day! SSCC1, Joseph, The Phantom, The Carthaginian, Sincerity, and toby led us out on Hocus Pocus. Unfortunately we missed the track out in the dark and ended up bashing uphill in the scrub. Woo. Overall this was a super grouse day though, collecting a LOT of stars. Thanks to Rod Smith also who gave us a couple more bolt plates for the rest of our trip.
Day 3 - Narrow neck. Started a bit late due to rain, decided to get on Cave Climb, bashed around up the top in the scrub getting wet. The guidebook says to go left, but really you go fairly straight to go down the upper cliffs, then sharp left at the bottom of those cliffs. Anyway we probably spent 45 minutes to establish this (put some little cairns at the descent spot on our way out.)
Cave climb was super great though. By this stage Toby was pretty exhausted so kindly volunteered to belay me on some sport routes, so we went to Shipley Upper and I headed up Trinity, Burning Jowls and Stormy Monday before driving back to Canberra.

On the flight back to Adelaide the Canberra airport security didn't like me taking my cordelettes in my hand luggage so I had to go back to try and check them into my baggage. It was too late to get my bag back and they wanted to charge me $30 to send them (maybe 300g) as an additional bag. So I gave the cords to the service guy and will buy new ones in Adelaide. Bloke must end up getting heaps of unwanted baggage... Or maybe other people just pay the money.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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