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Crag & Route Beta

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NZ - East Face of Pope's Nose
9:00:02 PM
G'day all,

Has anyone tackled the Alpine Rock climbs on the East Face of Pope's Nose in NZ? I'm looking at Bishop's Buttress (17) and The Vision (20) in early December this year, if I can get some more info and line up a climbing partner.

Any beta or advice?



7:13:54 PM
I've never heard of anyone but the first ascentionists climbing those routes. They present spectacular logistical challenges which the quality of the climbing probably does not justify in the eyes of most I suspect.

So I am curious what drew you to them?
11:25:18 PM

I'm something of an obscurist when it comes to adventurist trad routes (look at my previous posts on this forum, as evidence), and alpine rock/ice is a passion (just got back from a month in Kyrgyzstan.)

When I learned about these two climbs when I was in NZ previously, I was intrigued by the adventurousness, the presumed knowledge that they weren't climbed often, as well as the multipitching scale on such a sheer face.

The information in the guide indicates that helicopters are used to access the base of the climb... Other than money-wise, it might not be too much of a logistical problem.

4:48:46 AM

5:05:33 AM
Posting your question at may generate some feedback

6:46:20 AM
On 20/09/2012 skink wrote:
>Posting your question at may generate some

I am sure it will. Peter Dickson is quite active on the previous forum mojozone. My only comment would be that the Ewbank grading system crumbles at the edges of these long alpine rock routes where route finding and having consideration to ingress and egress may take precedence. That is, it is likely to be grade 17 or 20 +/- conditions/weather/whether you are climbing the original line or 20 or 50 m either side.
8:23:46 PM
I remember reading something about no more helicopter access into the base of the route (was in the great un-climbed lines issue of the climber) i can dig the article out and double check if you want.

Walking in or flying into bevan col and rapping to the base would be a "interesting" mission.

Have you done much alpine climbing before? ill be over in NZ for the summer (nov-jan) at this stage and i may be looking for a partner if mine can t make it over.

12:19:57 PM
G'day Brendan,

Yup, you're right about the chopper access. Just checked with some NZ colleagues to verify it. That does indeed make getting to the base a mission... Though not impossible. It also seems that from all reports these two routes really HAVEN'T had a recorded repeat ascent.

As to my alpine climbing... Well I've climbed a fair bit in NZ (done cook and the surrounding peaks, except for Tasman), and in Russia, and just got back from a month in Kyrgyzstan... Other than that, I've only climbed Blue Lake ice a few years ago. I'm fast on rock and mixed climbing, and no worries with snow or glacier travel. My weakness is just steep ice, because I haven't had much opportunity to practice on it. My plan is to go back to NZ for 2 weeks maybe in december and try and focus on some technical alpine climbing, preferably something obscure (though I still haven't done aspiring yet, so I might try and blast up that one as well). Not too sure who I'll be climbing with at the moment.

What are your plans, mate?
9:13:14 AM
I'll pm'd you with some details

There are 9 messages in this topic.


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