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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Berowra - Dodgy Anchor?

DangerLaef
26/08/2012
12:24:12 PM
On top of :Yesterday's Heroes.





What do you think? I chose to top out & Belay off some trees.


citationx
26/08/2012
1:19:13 PM
it's barely a flesh wound. there are two of them, what did you want? gold?
(yeah o maybe the left one is a bit dodge-o...)
simey
26/08/2012
1:47:59 PM
Stainless steel bolts and a bit of surface rust on the chain (the washer is irrelevant). I reckon the anchor is pretty damn solid.

My main concern would be how close the bolts have been placed to the cliff edge. If the cliff edge is undercut I wouldn't consider it an ideal placement (but I can't really tell from the photo).
Dr Nick
26/08/2012
4:30:43 PM
It's not ideal, but it's unlikely to be too bad yet - there's plenty of meat in that chain yet, and even without the washer it'd have a hard time getting over the bolt. It's worth keeping an eye on, and I'll swap it out if it starts looking too dodgy next time I take a drill that way (don't hold your breath though, I've had vague plans to pull the dodgy bolt on Scones for ages).

Simey - it's on Blackboard Wall at Berowra, so 90 degree cliff top and dead vertical wall. Undercutting isn't an issue, at least on that section of the crag.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
26/08/2012
7:58:07 PM
I find it interesting that only one side appears to have taken on the role of sacrificial anode(?), where the corrosion is more obvious; ~> certainly the other side chain is still in reasonably good knick at the bolt attachment point.

What happened to the shackle off the chains?

Dangerlaef
26/08/2012
8:11:33 PM
The shackle looked solid, even very light surface rust.

pmonks
27/08/2012
9:35:11 AM
I don't recall there being a chain on top of Yesterday's Heroes last time I did it (which admittedly was 13 or 14 years ago), so presumably they were placed more recently than that and have weathered a lot in a relatively short period of time. Whip 'em out and put in a pair of SGABs I say!

Superstu
29/08/2012
8:31:56 AM
On 26/08/2012 Dr Nick wrote:
>hold your breath though, I've had vague plans to pull the dodgy bolt on
>Scones for ages).

Are you referring to the bolt with the tat below the roof? If my memory serves me, there are two rings before the groin-stretching roof move and one of them has tat. Is there any reason why there are two? One replaces the other or was it an attempt at a mid belay?

Dr Nick
29/08/2012
4:42:48 PM
Pmonks - given the bolts are SS I'd say they're glue in (though maybe not, Berowra has had just about every possible fixed anchor at some stage, including Mikl's rebar efforts on Bullethole Wall). Keep an eye on that top link and washer and it'll do for another few years.

Superstu, yeah that one. I'm wondering if it was test placed and couldn't be easily pulled, so a 2nd bolt was placed next to it. It's reasonably obviously dodgy, but I don't want to hear about anyone clipping the wrong one or using it as anchors and lowering off (the other one seems bomber, but I'm a big wuss when it comes to anchors).

pmonks
30/08/2012
12:56:44 AM
On 29/08/2012 Dr Nick wrote:
>Pmonks - given the bolts are SS I'd say they're glue in (though maybe not,
>Berowra has had just about every possible fixed anchor at some stage, including
>Mikl's rebar efforts on Bullethole Wall). Keep an eye on that top link
>and washer and it'll do for another few years.

Yeah, though to my naive eye it looks like there's some pretty serious galvanic action going on, given how rusty it's gotten in little more than a decade. Won't get that with "naked" SGABs.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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