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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Topic Date User
Rings on 16-Aug-2012 At 11:21:49 AM IdratherbeclimbingM9
Message
On 16/08/2012 davidn wrote:
>Actually M9, I am into cleaning. I've been exploding a *lot* of holds
>lately. I prefer to do that *before* I put myself in danger, because exploding
>holds have a fun habit of sometimes launching you backwards rather than
>downwards. Since I know it's your pet subject, yes, I'm 'primarily a boulderer'.
> I don't see much difference between cleaning the top of an 8m boulder
>problem and the first 8-10 metres of a route, particularly where you're
>going to be in a position you can't downclimb from. Grabbing moss at a
>high top-out is more than 'oh shit' moment, it's potentially death in some
>situations.
>
>Cleaning a slabby grade 14 on which you can rest while you dig out shrubs
>is completely different to cleaning something vertical to overhung on which
>you might be resting on a hand jam in a dirty wet crack, at best. Or hanging
>off a free-standing 1 ton block.
>
>So, this is getting weird, but Damo and I agree again.
>
>Let's not confuse legitimate cleaning with an excuse for pre-inspection.
> One is done because you have a reasonable apprehension that you're going
>to get seriously hurt or killed; the other is because you think the route
>is too hard and wanted to 'just go brush off that hold a bit' (yeah right).
>
>Speaking of cleaning, anyone used oxygen bleach to destroy (massive quantities
>of) moss? Apparently it biodegrades as salt.

?
I think that your post is a sad example & indictment of the present culture all too rampant within climbing these days.

Accepting a climb on its merits whether that be bold, easy, clean, overgrown, loose, solid, etc!, is where the true test of 'self' is to be found.

As soon as a climb is manipulated to suit convenience/need (safety or otherwise), then the climber has short changed the possibilities available to themself, and also for others if the 'enhancements' are of a lasting nature...

Some of the most memorable climbs that I have done involved delicately negotiating my way past 'nature features', that far from detracting from the climbing, actually enhanced it.
~> & this includes the bouldering that I have done!

With your post I more fully realise that I am a minority relic of earlier climbing values that seeks to test myself while at the same time appreciating the location I do that in.

I might have to start a subchapter of the MaccizaODH tradification ofsport?routes club, and start planting out cracks and adding loose blocks!
;-)

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