17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
What gives at Dog Rocks? Was up there today and found that fixed hangers had been removed off no less than 5 established routes. This includes:
Jacobite 16, 1 FH removed
Unnamed slab left of Jewelry 16, 1 FH removed
Waiting for Sam 16, 2 FH removed
Scottish Reign 24, 1 FH removed
Stone Cold Blush 29, 2 FH removed and the bottom nut removed (FH left hanging loose in place)
All those bolts were insitu 4 weeks ago.
I am hoping that someone is about to tell me about the really good reason this has occured but I have to say it looks like someone has just flogged them... either for their own use or as a protest against bolts. The latter would be strange as several other bolted routes remain. If anyone has taken these hangers for their next great project I just hope you are found out... it would be nothing short of stealing from the local climbing community and that would make you scum.
If it is part of a greater bolt replacement programme (I hope there is a good reason) I would only ask why? The bolts on Stone Cold Blush were rubbish and could do with replacement... fine. The one on Scottish Reign was also aging (it can also be debated, but it has been there for a long time so is certainly 'established')... but the other 3 routes were all stainless steel fixed hangers in near new condition, and expansion bolts in granite are bomb proof... so why would you change? To rings? Unecessary. To carrots... even all the ol boys who started using carrots now reckon they are crap (Mikls recent post as an example). And even if that was the case wouldnt it be better to do a route at a time rather than render approximately half the areas bolted routes unservicable?
Which brings me back to potential theft. People work hard to establish routes... shame.