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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Prologue - Mt Piddington.

Batey

6/08/2012
11:35:21 AM

Im interested if anyone has Climbed Prologue 11 at Mt Piddington?

http://www.thecrag.com/route/15387253

My Partner and I attempted to climb it on Saturday getttng lost somewhere near the end of pitch 2 and ending up on a scamble up a gully that didn't seem like any real climbing at all.

As we come out of the small cave making a move left we found ourself at a large gum tree with the "larger cave" just above in what was more of a gully.

My question is... Were we ment to head up to the cave and traverse righ back out on the face? If so is it worth it or are the first 2 pitches the good ones?

Wouldn't mind atempting this route again if the last 2 pitches are worth it? Found the first 2 harder then grade 11 but still enjoyable (trip report sometime tomorrow on our weekend outing).

pmonks

6/08/2012
1:37:34 PM

I've only done the first pitch, and also thought it was a bit of a sandbag at 11! Did you notice the stuck machine nut down low?

latch

Online Now
6/08/2012
2:47:24 PM

I did it about 5 years back. We ended up scrambling up the gully which was just that and I didn't think worth the effort which was a shame after the start. Not sure if we missed the line. Be interested to know to.

E. Wells

6/08/2012
3:22:15 PM

I did it alone once and you can definately avoid the gully and climb on rock, it is just unprotected.....I suppose.

citationx

6/08/2012
3:27:12 PM

did it years ago.would've been around my 10th trad climb ever. yes, sandbagged start, only vaguely remember a rambly, sandy, wandering pile of choss after the first pitch, edned up on the left somehwere behind a tree and a sandy gully or... *shrug*.
also remember feeling like we were 143m off the ground and that it was the greatest climb ever. did it several years later to still find it stiff for a grade 11, felt like i was only 6m off the ground and looked up and didn't bother trying to figure out where the climb went due to the rubbish factor so just rapped back down.

Batey

6/08/2012
3:43:21 PM

Seems as everyone has the same impression.
I thought the 2nd pitch was not bad. but should have rapped off the top of that one by the sounds of it rather then wasting an hour and a bit on the rest of the crap up the top.

Thanks for the info. I think i got some pics ill put in a TR later in the week.

There are 6 messages in this topic.