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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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All NSW (General) (General) (General)

Author

Big Nose (25) Pierces Pass

SydneyBattler

2/06/2012
11:59:14 PM

Hey has anyone done Big Nose in the Blue Mountains?

I was thinking of doing it during the break but I wanted to get people's thoughts on the second (crux) 25 pitch. I downloaded Mike Law's Pierces Pass guide online but considering 25 is at the limit of my outdoor leads I wanted to get some more info on the difficult pitch. The guide describes the pitch as an "excellent thin arete"...

Any help?

mikllaw

3/06/2012
7:02:14 AM

It has one very hard section of 25 that you can aid through at very hard 23 perhaps. Definately not a winter route, t catches the wind and never sees the sun.

SydneyBattler

3/06/2012
10:44:59 AM

would any of the pierce's pass routes be good for winter (Yesterday's Groove, Hotel California, etc)?

mikllaw

3/06/2012
11:00:29 AM

No, too cold.
go do stuff near perry's Lookdown, it's warm and sheltered there:-

Slipstream, there are 2 more excellent pitches below the 3 that are written up- 23,22,23,22,22

Yak Banquet 23,23,22,22,21

A date with density 24

Red Edge 26 or 23 m0

SydneyBattler

3/06/2012
11:13:21 AM

cheers

mikllaw

3/06/2012
11:49:07 AM

I'll send you a revised topo of Slipstream if you give me an email

(original pitch 2, Ado posing with Mt banks in the background)

SydneyBattler

3/06/2012
1:52:25 PM

just sent my email through via private message. Cheers

Nmonteith

3/06/2012
2:57:19 PM

The good thing about these Perry's routes is you rap down what you are climbing up - so if you are time/weather poor you can just do the top couple of pitches. All these routes are in the 2010 bluies guide.

vwills

3/06/2012
6:56:14 PM

Has Yak Banquet been regraded?
I did it a couple of weeks back. It was toasty warm and a modern day classic. I thought 22 was fair for all the pitches (actually found pitch 3 marginally more difficult but may have missed a key hold or two). Favourite pitch was pitch 2 (the one borrowed from Date with Density) as it has 2 aretes to climb and great exposure

benjenga

3/06/2012
7:38:54 PM

Yep I have climbed big nose and it one Stella route. The crux pitch is the full deal and well worth the effort but it's hard. It starts out easy till you get to the arête and then there are some long thin crux sections. I caught some BIG air trying the crux including pulling a jug hold off the top of the crux.
Once you clear the arete there are some really cool friction slab moves to the belay.
RAD climb.

There are 10 messages in this topic.